Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
Description of the Orkney Islands (Author: Joseph Ben)

section 18

Pomonia,18.

Pomonia, so named, as if the middle of the apple, because it lies between the north and south isles, is also called Mainland. It contains many parishes, of which the following is a description:
Dierness, or the ness of diers. This parish was formerly woody, and infested by many wild animals; but the trees were torn up by the roots by a flood, and overwhelmed. In the northern part of this parish is a natural rock in the sea, to the top of which people climb on their hands and knees with great difficulty; there is on it a chapel called the Bairns of Brugh. Men, both old and young, boys, and servants without number, flock together here from all the islands, and when they have arrived, they ascend the rock, as I have just said, bare-footed, and praying, where but one at a time can come to the chapel. In it there is a pure and clear fountain, which indeed is truly wonderful. There


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the men, with bent knees and uplifted hands, doubting the powers of God, pray to the Bairns of Brugh, with many incantations, throwing stones and water behind their backs, and going twice or three times round the chapel: when their prayers are done they return home, satisfied that their desires will be granted. They do not worship God here in purity.

In the year 1506, John Stewart landed in the Orkneys, and discovered a gold mine in this parish; when he had loaded two ships, and was preparing cargoes for others, and was in the mine with the workmen, a raven cried out three times with a loud voice. The leader, and some others, immediately came out, but five were left behind, upon whom the rock fell with a great crash, destroying those within, while the rest were saved.

St. Andrew. This is a large parish, abounding in grain; there is nothing remarkable recorded concerning it, except what befel a very celebrated man, called James Sinclare, who lived here, and engaged in a war with the people of Caithness, as will be mentioned hereafter. This noble general being taken, ran mad, and throwing himself into the sea, ended his life in this melancholy manner.

Holm and Paplay. These two parishes are united, and the same church serves both. Travellers going to the southern parts are ferried across from hence.

St. Olaus. This is a very flourishing and beautiful parish; in the middle of which stands a town named Kirkwall, in which is a church dedicated to St. Magnus. Here also is a castle formerly built by the Sinclares; also another church, which was burned to the ground by the English, called St. Olaus's Church, where malefactors are now buried.

The women here are much addicted to pleasure, which I attribute to the abundance of fish. In this parish is a very lofty mountain, called Wisford, whence all Pomonia and the other islands are visible. It is a sign of war among the Orcades, when the fountain in its summit begins to burst forth.

Frith is another parish, where oysters are caught in abundance.

Stenhouse. In this parish is a large lake, twenty-four miles in circuit. In a sepulchre in a hillock near the lake, were found the bones of a man, joined together, fourteen feet long, as my author says, and money was found there under his head. I myself saw the sepulchre. In the same place, near a lake, are lofty and broad stones, about a spear's length in height, enclosing a circuit of about half a mile.

In the year 1527, a war arose between the people of Caithness and the Orkneys: the former invaded the island with all their forces, with spears, darts, arrows, and the sound of trumpets. But, while these things were doing, the people of Pomonia marched out to meet them, and the armies joined on a mountain of this parish near Bexwell. The invaders were all overthrown and slaughtered, so that not one escaped. The Earl's sepulchre is still to be seen in that place; he was grandfather to the present count. The people of Orkney returned in triumph to the city, under the command of James Sinclare, of whom we have already spoken. The place where this battle was fought is called Symmerdan.

Orpher is another parish, affording a good harbour for fishermen.

Stromness has an excellent harbour, and an excellent outlet for a fleet. The French and Spaniards often escape tempests here, as no winds can injure vessels in this harbour. This port is called Cairstane, because it is fortified with stone. Healthy winds, called etesian, blow here. Here also is a most dangerous bridge to travellers, called the bridge of Vaith, where many are lost.

Sandwich abounds with rabbits; it is the largest of all the parishes, and entirely cultivated.

Bersa is called a barony; in it is a noble palace, where the king of the Orkneys formerly lived; but when Julius Caesar governed the whole world, he was carried by force to Rome, and his kingdom was afterwards subject to the Romans, as the inscription on one stone proves. The king's name was Gavus.

Haray is another parish, where there are a set of most worthless drones, who are therefore called the sheep of Haray. Here is a great church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, called by the common People the Lady of Grace;


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concerning which many fables are told. Many flock hither from the other islands.

Evie, another parish where whales enter freely. It enjoys great abundance of corn.

Rendal. This parish was subject to the lord of Tulliallon, and he was lord of it, as his house still testifies. The length of Pomonia, from the Bairns of Brugh to the Brugh of Birsay, contains sixteen miles. There are about five thousand men capable of bearing arms in Pomonia, and as many in the islands. It has abundance of barley and oats; the men are very much addicted to drink and luxury, and often quarrel with one another. For example, when one neighbour invites another, if the guest be not sick before he departs, he quarrels with his host until he is sent home drunk. This is also the custom in the islands. They are very crafty and cunning, and use a dialect peculiar to themselves.