Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
Adamnan's De Locis Sanctis (Author: Adamnan of Iona)
Chapter/toc 30
CONCERNING THE SITE OF ALEXANDRIA AND THE
RIVER NILE
That great city, which had once been the metropolis of Egypt, was
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formerly called in Hebrew No. It is a very populous city, and is called
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Alexandria after its famous founder Alexander the Macedonian king,
a name known throughout all nations, deriving from him as rebuilder
at once its name and its magnitude as a city. Concerning the site of this
too the account of Arculf differs in no wise from what we learned
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previously by reading. He went down from Jerusalem and beginning
his voyage from Joppe had a journey of 40 days to Alexandria. Concerning
it there is a brief passage of Naum the prophet. He speaks thus: the
water is round about it, its riches are the sea, the waters its walls; for
on the southern side it is surrounded by the delta of the river Nile and
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on the northern side by the Mareotic lake. This description makes its
situation clear: poised over the Nile and the sea, on either side it is
lapped by water. It forms a sort of bar between Egypt and the great sea?
an ill-harboured city, difficult to approach from the outside. Its port is
more difficult than others, being shaped rather like the human body:
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it has its greater capacity at the very head, in the dock, but is rather
narrow at the neck, where it takes in the flotsam of sea and shipping,
these providing the breathing material for the port. Once one has passed
the narrows at the mouth of the port, the expanse of sea stretches far and
wide as if it were the rest of the body. At the right-hand side of the port
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is a small island, on which there is a great tower which both Greeks and
Latins called Farus because of its very function. Voyagers, that is, can
see it at a distance, so that before they approach the port, particularly at
night-time, the burning flame lets them know that the mainland adjoins
them, lest they be deceived by the darkness and hit upon the rocks, or
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lest they should be unable to recognize the limits of the entrance.
Accordingly there are keepers there who put in torches and other fuel to
tend the fire that acts as a presage of landfall and a mark for the harbour
mouth. It marks the narrows as one enters, the swell of the waves
and the curves of the harbour mouth, lest the slender keel should
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graze the rocks, and in the very act of entering come to grief amongst the
sharp edges hidden in the waves. Thus one must veer slightly off the
straight course, lest the ship should encounter danger (precisely where
it hoped for deliverance) and be crushed on the blind rocks. For the
entrance to the port is quite narrow, being confined on the righthand
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side by the breakwater (laterali?), but on the left the port is wide.
Around the island too moles of considerable mass are sunk, for fear its
foundations should give way under the continual pounding of high seas
and disintegrate through constant wear. Consequently, the mid-channel
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stretching between the sharp rocks and broken moles is of course always
rough, and entry becomes hazardous for sailors as they make the choppy
passage.
The whole harbour spreads to a width of 30 stades, and no matter how
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great the storm, by compensation the interior haven is absolutely safe
inasmuch as it keeps out the waves by reason of the narrow entrance
mentioned above and the shelter afforded by the island. The narrows at
the mouth of the port mean that the whole sweep of the bay inside is
protected and removed from storms, and it is free from the rough swell
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that makes the entrance choppy. Indeed, there is good reason both for
the size of the port and for protecting it, for all merchandise of use
throughout the whole world has to be transported there. The considerable
populations of these regions seek the commerce of the whole
world for their own use. The area is corn-producing and abounds in
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the other riches and products of the earth, and it supplies corn and
necessary merchandise to the whole world. Such territory of course
needs rain, and rain is furnished gratuitously by the overflowings of the
Nile. It renders a twofold service there, providing at once fertility of soil
and moisture of climate; it waters the ground and enriches the soil, an
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advantage both to sailor and farmer. The former voyages, the latter
sows, sailors move about on boats, farmers carry on their cultivation:
there is sowing without a plough, and travel without a carriage. One sees
a country studded with canals, while the hulls of boats which serve as
dwellings throughout the whole land give the impression of high walls.
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They adjoin the banks of the river Nile on both sides. For the river is
navigable as far as the city of the Elephants, as they call it: the cataracts,
that is moving masses of river water, do not allow a ship to proceed
farther, not for lack of depth, but by reason of the headlong rush of the
whole river and the waste of falling water.
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Thus the account of the holy Arculf concerning the site of Alexandria
and of the river Nile certainly does not differ from what we learned by
reading from the books of others. From these we have inserted some
brief extracts in this description, that is concerning the ill-harboured
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character of the city, concerning the hazards of the port, concerning
the island and the tower built on it, concerning the position of Alexandria
bounded by the sea and the delta of the river Nile, and so on. Of course
this is the reason why the city, narrowly compressed as it is on two
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sides, is extended in a very long narrow belt from west to east. This is
even made evident by the account of Arculf, who began to enter the
city (as he tells himself) at the third hour of the day in the month of
October, and traversing its whole length was just able to get to the
very end before evening time. The area is encompassed by a lengthy
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circuit of walls, fortified moreover by many towers, which are constructed
along the brink of the river and the shore of the bay. Further,
when approaching from the direction of Egypt and entering the city of
Alexandria from the northern side, one encounters a church of considerable
size, in which Mark the evangelist lies buried. His sepulchre is on
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view in the eastern portion of this square church, before the altar, with
a memorial placed above it built of marble stones.
This Alexandria then, which (as was said above) used to be called No
before it was enlarged and rebuilt by Alexander, adjoins, as said above,
the mouth of the river Nile (which is called Canopicum), which is the
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boundary between Asia, including Egypt, and Libya. Because of the
flooding of the river Nile, the Egyptians build high embankments about
its banks; and if by reason of the carelessness of those who tend them or
because of an excessive outrush of water these burst, so far from irrigating
the underlying plains they devastate and destroy them. For this
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reason, as the holy Arculf relates who during his wanderings in Egypt
often crossed the river by boat, many people who inhabit the: plains of
Egypt live in houses that are propped above the waters by transverse
beams.
There dwell in the river Nile, as Arculf tells, crocodiles, aquatic
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four-footed beasts, not very large, but very voracious and so strong that
even a single one, if by chance he is able to find a horse or an ass or an
ox grazing by the bank of the river, comes out with a sudden rush and
falls upon it; and even though he may seize the animal only by one foot,
he drags it beneath the water and devours it completely.
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