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The Aran Isles: or, A report of the excursion of the Ethnological section of the British association from Dublin to the western islands of Aran, in September, 1857 (Author: Martin Haverty)

chapter 5

DUN ONAGHT

From the Seven Churches the party followed Mr. Wilde, in the best way they could, across the fields of riven rocks to Dun Onaght (Eoghanacht), one of the old Firbolgic forts, so called from the name of the townland, the original name being lost; and here the indefatigable leader, having piped his party together, directed their attention to the truly magnificent panorama which they enjoyed from that elevated position. The whole coast of Connemara was visible, with Golin Head in the foreground, and the grand outline of the Twelve Pins beyond; while on the extreme right the bold promontory of Black Head arose in one dark mass from the ocean. The fort in which they were then assembled was a nearly perfect one, though the want of a historic name deprived it of the interest which others on the islands enjoyed. It is nearly round, its longest diameter in the inside being about 94 feet. The walls are of regularly shaped, but unhewn, masses of limestone, put together without cement; and they are built against each other in three distinct layers, so that if the outer

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face were demolished by an enemy, a second and a third equally perfect face would present itself. In some parts there were buttresses, and other indications of repair; and in the interior flights of steps to ascend to the platform and parapets above. The date of this and of the other like structures in Aran is clearly pre-Christian and pre-historic; but the work of dilapidation has been carried on at such a rate by idle boys for several years past, that there is reason to fear that antiquaries at some future time will have few specimens of them left to ground their conjectures upon. Mr. Thompson, the agent to the property, here addressed the people on the necessity of preserving this and the other memorials on the island from dilapidation. Dr. O'Donovan being asked his opinion on the subject, said he considered this fort relatively modern when compared with that of Duv Caher, which they had seen the day before; yet when he said modern, he meant that they should go back about 2000 years for the origin of the most recent of them!

From Dun Onaght the party crossed the island to the great cliffs on the ocean side, at one of which an exciting exhibition was prepared, which few of the party can ever expect to witness again. We had all heard how the inhabitants of Aran, and the Hebrides, and some other places, descend the dizzy ocean cliffs by means of ropes, in search of sea-fowls' eggs, and of the birds themselves for the sake of the feathers; and here our ethnologists were to be treated to a view of the appalling feat performed in the most perfect manner. Fifteen or twenty of the hardy islanders had brought their ropes, and when we had assembled at a point which might be called the horn of a crescent-shaped cliff, the rope was fastened round the middle of an old man, upwards of sixty years on the island, who boldly let himself over, whilst a dozen of his comrades payed out the rope from above. When he got down some few yards, this active and fearless old man, striking the rock with his foot, holding the rope with one hand, and preserving his balance with the other, flew, as it were, outwards and downwards, his feet constantly moving like paddles in the air; and as the oscillations of the rope, which grew longer and longer as he descended, brought him towards the cliff, in imminent danger of being dashed to pieces, he struck out again with a bold

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and graceful movement, until at last, becoming smaller to our eyes as he descended, he reached the bottom. He took off the rope, which was then hauled up, when another and younger man, and after him a third who was a mere lad, performed the same perilous feat in a manner precisely similar. The old man then assumed the rope again, and was swung outwards by his companions below, and during the first long vibration of the living pendulum ascended about fifty feet. The process of striking the cliff was repeated each time he approached it on the ascent, until arriving within thirty feet of the brow of the precipice, he literally commenced to run up the face of it, his body projecting horizontally, supported and raised by the men above; and thus he reached the summit again. Within a few minutes the other men were also brought up in safety, amid the applause of all who beheld the exciting and novel exhibition. It should be added that, with the experienced men who performed those feats, there was really no danger to be apprehended.