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The Aran Isles: or, A report of the excursion of the Ethnological section of the British association from Dublin to the western islands of Aran, in September, 1857 (Author: Martin Haverty)
chapter 3
THE LANDING
After a voyage of about three hours, the Vestal cast anchor in a small bay, at one side of which, to the right, is the neat and important village of Kilronan, and at the other, but nearer to the head of the bay, that of Killeany. The ship's boats having been lowered, the excursionists, with their aid and that of the coastguard boat, which had put off from the island, were landed at Killeany, close under all that remains of Cromwell's old castle of Arkin. The inhabitants of the village had crowded to the shore, and their picturesque appearance, while collected in groups, the men in their costume of fishermen, and the women and girls wearing the characteristic red petticoats, and, for the most part, red or blue bodices, made the effect very striking in the eyes of strangers. All the houses in the village, as well as in the island generally, had been recently whitewashed, and the people looked comparatively clean and comfortable, although the poor fishing village of Killeany, to which scarcely any land is attached, is the most wretched in the entire island.
Mr. Wilde's duties as cicerone now commenced, and, piping all hands with a small whistle, the shrill sound of which will be
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associated with many an interesting reminiscence in the memory of the Aran excursionists, he explained in a few words the origin and character of the old walls of Arkin; and, observing that they were only a Saxon, and comparatively modern innovation, he sprang over a neighbouring wall, and away went the whole bevy of ethnologists, old and young, learned doctors, reverend divines, eloquent men of law, profound science scholars, artists, naturalists, enthusiastic archaeologists, and all, over innumerable walls which intersect the surface of the island everywhere, dividing the arable portions of it into small patches of two or three perches each. These walls were rudely built of single stones, and came tumbling down at every touch; yet away went the savans surmounting every obstacle, and anon clambering up the sides of the rocky hill, to the utter amazement of the poor natives, who looked like people that had passively abandoned their island to invaders. In a few minutes Mr. Wilde came to a halt, about half way up the hill, and announced that they had arrived at the Round Tower. At this moment the excursionists were still strewed in a long train from the landing-place to the point of interest, struggling as well as they could to ascend among rocks, briars, and stone walls; but at length they arrived, and found themselves collected round the base of a real Round Tower, at present only a few feet high, but which, at a comparatively recent period, rose to a considerable elevation. It was impossible to compare the masonry of the well-dressed and neatly fitted blocks of which it was composed with the rude, uncemented walls of the old Pagan fortresses, of which we saw so many during our exploration of these islands, without feeling the absurdity of attributing to it anything like the antiquity which unquestionably belonged to the latter. The circumference of the base is about 49 feet, and the height at present is only some 4 or 5 feet. From the Round Tower we continued to ascend over rocks, unmingled with the least vegetation, until at the highest point of this, the eastern end of Ara Mor, we came to the beautiful cyclopean Oratory of St. Benan or Benignus. Here Dr. Petrie, at the invitation of Mr. Wilde, proceeded to give the audience, now collected about him, a brief explanation. He directed their attention,
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in the first place, to the fine scene spread out at their feet. Below them, in the deep valley, once lay the parish church of Teampull Mor Enda, surrounded by a group of other churches, among which was one dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. These, however, had all been removed to construct the Elizabethan and Cromwellian fort which we have mentioned, and not even a trace of their foundations was now to be seen. Far off to the east, on the sandy beach, appeared the walls of the small Teglach Enda, which was the mortuary chapel of a small cemetery, in which St. Endeus himself and 127 others are said to have been interred, and in which, according to tradition, none but saints were buried. Straw Island was seen beyond, and a good deal to the right the shores of Inis Maan. In the centre of the bay which swept round to the left lay the graceful form of the Vestal, buoyant on the green, transparent sea, — as beautiful a model of a steam yacht as could well be conceived, — with the standards of the Trinity House floating from her mast-heads and her stern flagstaff, numerous small curraghs plying between her and the shore. At a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles to the north was spread out the rough coast of Connemara, with its blue mountains in the back ground. Altogether it was a scene from which it was not easy to withdraw the eyes, even of antiquaries, to fix them on the humble little oratory round which we were assembled. Dr. Petrie then expressed his opinion that this building was an undoubted sixth century church, and one of the most interesting in the island. It stands nearly north and south, contrary to the usual rule, and its walls are composed of huge stones, one of which was nearly sufficient to form the western side of the building. The gables taper to a great height, and there is no doubt that the roof was formed of overlapping stones. A little in front of the oratory are the ruins of St. Benan's humble hermitage, sunk partly in the rock, and formerly roofed with stone; and at a short distance are the remains of a dilapidated cashel, or group of small stone houses, or cloghauns, in which, probably, the monks resided. Dr. Petrie observed that, when he was in the island, thirty-five years ago, the Round Tower they had just visited was much higher than at present; and he then met an old islander who remembered when it was 82 feet in height.
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From this point the party proceeded over the interminable sharp rocks to the south-western or Atlantic shore of the island, occasionally meeting granite boulders, or Connemara stones, as they are called, on their way; and here on the steep ocean cliff they entered the ancient Firbolgic fortress of Doo Caher, or the Black Fort, the principal features of which were explained to them by Mr. Wilde. The wall of the Dun, which was in some places about 20 feet high, was of enormous thickness, and of the rudest cyclopean masonry, and extended across the neck of a peninsula, the remaining sides of which, being terrific precipices, were amply defended against attack. In front of the wall was a chevaux de frise of sharp stones, placed erect in the fissures of the rocks; and in the interior of the Dun were the confused ruins of several cloghauns, which Mr. Wilde stated had been very much dilapidated since the period of his former visit, ten years before, but that he fortunately possessed a drawing of one of the most remarkable. The walls, as the name of the Dun indicates, have a blackened appearance, and Dr. O'Donovan expressed his belief that this building is probably a thousand years older than Dun Ængus, and that it belonged to about the earliest people who occupied the country.5
From Doo Caher the party recrossed the island to Kilronan, the principal village, and which boasts the luxury of a hotel; and having gone on board the Vestal to have tea, the greater number again disembarked, and spent the night in the village, where they were accommodated with excellent beds in the Atlantic Hotel, at the Coast-guard station, and in the houses of the islanders.
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