Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
The Miseries and Beauties of Ireland (Author: Jonathan Binns)
chapter 15
Glengariff — Captain White's domain — Agricultural hints — Steep and rugged road to Kenmare — The Marquis of Lansdowne's estates — Eagles — Kenmare — Public buildings — Liberality of the Marquis of Lansdowne — Export and trade of Kenmare — Distressed condition of the cottagers — Advantage of poor-laws to farmers as well as labourers — The "waking" of Michael Sullivan — Road from Kenmare to Darrynane — Dromore Castle — Crookhaven — Raking sea-weed — Extensive and noble prospect — Arrival at Darrynane House — Hospitality of the family — Fast-day — Description of the mansion and grounds — Mr. O'Connell's love of field sports — The Abbey — Sermon in Irish — Devotion of the congregation — Unostentatious character of the priest — Pride of descent — Agriculture and wages — Mines — Mr. O'Connell's estates.
It was my lot to see Glengariff — one of the most picturesque spots in Ireland — at an unfavourable time. In the first place it was winter, and, in the next place, the weather had become uncommonly stormy; so that when I approached the little inn, situated near the top of a narrow creek of the bay, there was but little which seemed to justify the high reputation enjoyed by this sequestred
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place. The rocky and woody scenery, the waters of the lake, the quiet coves, and the romantic streams, were obscured by mist and rain; and the buds on the rose trees, which twined about the windows of the inn, were driven by the storm against the glass, and gave a still more dismal effect to a scene already sufficiently desolate. The room to which I was conducted was cold, dark, and dreary; and, after having made several vain attempts to get up a tolerable fire of wet turf, I was forced to pass the time as well as I could in a solitary apartment without one. Having remained here, for the space at least of two or three hours, only half well, my solitude was interrupted by a gentleman of the name of Wright, an engineer and contractor of Skibbereen, with whom I passed the rest of the day most pleasantly. He had endeavoured to pass along the road from Glengariff to Kenmare, but when he arrived at that part where the rocks are nearly perpendicular, the rain and wind became so violent, as to render any further progress impossible. After much consultation as to the best
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mode of passing the mountains in the morning, it was ultimately arranged that we should make the attempt together — he, on his part, liberally offering to convey me in his gig — and I, on mine, promising to assist, in case of difficulty.
When I retired to my room, I found the window broken, and was obliged to stuff it, according to the fashion of the country, with some of my clothes. The house contained neither bellows nor warming-pan, and was devoid of some of the very cheapest and most ordinary of luxuries. Such in winter is the hotel of the romantic and delightful Glengariff. I can well fancy that in summer it must be a charming spot, comprehending as it does almost every variety of scenery except the positively sublime; indeed, that it is one of the most attractive of places, we have the concurrent testimony of all who have visited it. The bay abounds in fish, of which we had a supply both to dinner and breakfast.
Close to the inn is the domain of Captain White, Lord Bantry's brother. It is exceedingly beautiful, and says much for the judicious forbearance of
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those who have had the arrangement of it, and who, instead of trying to mend nature, have left her almost entirely to herself. Wild woods and glades, valleys full of beauty, and hills that command extensive views, diversify the grounds, which only wanted the brightness of the cheerful arbutus to vie with parks of greater pretension, and more distinguished reputation. I was greatly disappointed with the house; it is a fanciful modern cropped building, with its eaves as if shorn close, and rendered anomalous by an intermixture of castellated architecture.
The scenery from the grounds is of a very superior character, uniting beauty with grandeur. The outlines of the various ranges of mountains were clearly defined; and the bay, with its numerous islands, and great variety of creeks, inlets, and promontories, was displayed in singular loveliness. Hungry Hill, with its abrupt acclivities and towering heights, forms an interesting object in the distance.
The principal proprietors about Glengariff are Lords Bantry, Lansdowne, and Kenmare, and
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Mr. White. They are all spoken of as good landlords. Farming societies, I was glad to find, are increasing in that part of the country. It is susceptible of considerable improvement, and although, uneven and rocky, is capable of great fertility. The soil between the rocks is good; and by means of keeping cattle in sheds, cutting their food in the summer, and husbanding the manure, it will vie with those districts commonly looked upon by the superficial observer as more favoured by nature; with the addition of planting, the fertility of the soil would also be increased, and the vicinity of Glengariff become one of surpassing beauty.
About a mile of the road from Glengariff to Kenmare is steeper and more rugged than can well be imagined, and, as a new one was in progress, it had been much neglected. The torrents having washed much of the ground away, had left it in the condition of a series of huge rugged steps. Several persons accompanied us to assist the horse in the arduous ascent, and, in descending on the other side, a rope was fastened to the
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wheel of the empty vehicle, as a substitute for a lock. The inclination may be estimated at one in four. The new road, over a part of which we travelled, will be a valuable improvement, the inclination being not more than one in thirty. The usual plan, when a road is out of order, is, for two of the occupiers, or rate-payers, to apply to the magistrates, at the Sessions, for a rate to be laid for the purpose of repairing it: tenders are then delivered; the matter is discussed before the magistrates; and the lowest bidder, provided his securities be approved, is declared the undertaker. A surveyor is appointed to inspect all the roads in the county, and he makes his report, certifying the fulfilment of the contract. The same plan is adopted in the construction of new roads, the applicants providing maps and plans, and submitting them to the inspection of the county surveyor. The new system, said an engineer that I conversed with, has thrown many experienced surveyors out of employment, and many of the contractors offer to do the work at so low a price that they never complete it.
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For several miles from Glengariff, the country we passed through was very mountainous, abounding with lakes; and, to the westward, there are said to be upwards of 300 in one short range. Proceeding further, I recognised the bold Mangerton Mountains, and the curiously indented Mac-Gillicuddy's Reeks, above the beautiful lakes of Killarney, which, on my previous journey, I approached from the road on the opposite side. At the summit of the steep and difficult ascent before mentioned, we entered the Marquis of Lansdowne's estates, about five miles from Glengariff, and I was delighted to witness the attempts made on this property, not only to encourage a better system of agriculture and husbandry, but to augment the comforts of the population by the improvement of their dwellings. Neat stone houses, built at the expense of the Marquis, were taking the place of clusters of mean hovels, rudely constructed of mud and thatch; and the tenants are paid for making the fences. The Marquis has also built a school-house in the neighbourhood, and has recently begun to encourage planting.
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In these wild and thinly populated districts, eagles abound, and are very destructive among the lambs. A man who assisted us up the steep ascent previously alluded to, said, that on an average he lost six every year. The sheep which we passed wore a miserable, starved look, and the same man (who occupied a small farm on the south side of the mountain) informed us, that in consequence of being shorn in November, they were rendered not worth stealing.
Kenmare is situated at the head of an estuary which runs with a narrow point up to the town, and is about six miles in width at the entrance, and nearly twenty-five miles in length. Vessels of 120 tons burden come close up to the pier, and ships of 500 anchor within a quarter of a mile of it. The pier was lately built, I was told, and cost £1500, half of the expense being paid by the Marquis of Lansdowne, who also promised, with his wonted liberality, to contribute one half of the sum necessary to build a bridge in the neighbourhood, the cost of which was estimated at £6000. A Catholic chapel, and other public buildings, have been likewise
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erected at the expense of this munificent nobleman; and such of the cottagers as choose to erect small cabins on his estate, he supplies with timber for the purpose, and £5 towards the expense of building. To those who expend larger sums in constructing better cabins, more is given in proportion: and industry and cleanliness are promoted by premiums awarded to those who keep their cottages in a state of neatness. The Marquis, moreover, has built five schools on his estates, in which both Catholic and Protestant children are instructed, according to the system of the National Board. The proportion of Catholics to Protestants in the neighbourhood, is as forty of the former to one of the latter.
The principal export of Kenmare is grain; the import, iron, coal, and timber. The trade of the town is rapidly increasing. Coals cost from 16s. to 22s. per ton; lime 1s. 2d. per barrel. The wheat crop of the previous year had been deficient, so had potatoes; oats, however, were an average crop. Wheat was selling at from 27s. to 31s. per barrel; oats at 9d., and potatoes at 2 1/2d. per stone.
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Notwithstanding the acknowledged improvement of trade and of the country generally, the poor cottagers are in a very distressed condition. The land allotted to them is wet, and, till drained, unsuitable for the cultivation of potatoes; the labourer earns 6d. and sometimes 8d. per day, but is employed scarcely half his time; and many of the small holders, if they had the land for nothing, could not support themselves and families. They are nearly half naked, and are but half fed. This is indeed a wretched state of things — enough to convince the most sceptical of the absolute necessity that exists for the speedy establishment of some system of poor-laws. Nor would the institution of such means be the discharge of a debt of justice to the poor alone; the farmers and the tradesmen would feel it as an important boon, for as many of the large proprietors contribute scarcely anything to the relief of the suffering part of the population, the burden principally falls upon them. It did not appear that any attempt had been made to teach the cottagers a better system of agriculture, or to stimulate
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them to attempt a better system; this, amidst the Marquis's liberality, is a defect much to be regretted. There is but little use in building cottages, unless the inmates have the means of living in them with comfort. If any opinion of mine were likely to meet the attention of the Marquis, and should be fortunate enough to receive his approbation, I would take the liberty of suggesting the propriety of distributing in the neighbourhood, according to the plan recommended so ably by Mr. Blacker, a few agriculturists, under whose experienced superintendance the district would very shortly, I doubt not, display manifest evidences of improvement. The Marquis possesses, in this part of the country, about 42,000 acres of land, the rental of which is about £9,000 per annum. He visits his estates occasionally.
On my way to inspect some of the comfortable looking white-washed cottages on the opposite side of the river, I perceived, from the interest excited among a crowd of people, standing near the water, that some serious accident had happened;
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and so indeed it was. On approaching the spot, and making inquiries as to the cause of the assemblage, I learned that the body of a young man, Michael Sullivan, had just been taken out of the river. He had attempted to swim across, the evening before, and was drowned. I crossed by the ferry-boat, which was full of persons going to wake the body, all talking very fluently in Irish; and in a garden or small croft, by the side of which my road lay to the cottages, the corpse of the unfortunate young man was laid, surrounded by friends and relatives, who rent the air with loud strains and dismal lamentations. One female, seated at the head, was fondly stroking the forehead, and smoothing the hair in a most tender and affectionate manner, crying, at the same time, "Ullagore — moveen — ullaloo" — as near as I could understand the somewhat indistinct sounds. Those coming up joined in the cry "ullaloo." It was a most affecting scene. The poor people had collected from the cottages within a considerable distance, and expressed unfeigned sympathy for the bereaved relations of the deceased. One poor old
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woman, overcome by the spectacle of grief before her, had fainted, and lay on the ground insensible; but this circumstance, painful as it was, did not in the least interfere with the mourning and lamentation. I received and accepted an invitation to see the body. An inspection of the interior of the cottages, so neat as regarded their outsides, disappointed me: and the land about them was exceedingly poor, and full of large stones. Industry and perseverance would in time render it productive, but the people are unacquainted with the proper method of improving it, neither do they appear to have the means.
Darrynane, the residence of Mr. O'Connell, is distant from Kenmare thirty-one miles, and I was informed by the landlord of the inn at the latter place, and indeed by all that spoke to me on the subject, that I should share, at the residence of the celebrated "Liberator," the hearty welcome which is invariably offered to all who travel the wilds surrounding it. The road from Kenmare to Darrynane is mountainous, — parts of the country being very thinly inhabited, —
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and does not possess a single inn or house of public accommodation; Darrynane, in fact, is the only place of entertainment "for man and horse," and Darrynane is open to all who choose to accept its hospitality. I left Kenmare about ten o'clock in the morning, and had the bay in view nearly the whole way. Not far from Kenmare is Dromore, the residence of Mr. Mahony, who was building, under the superintendence of Messrs. Dean and Notter, architects, a new house of the castellated order. I had occasion to observe, not only in respect of this mansion, but of nearly all those which affect the air of antiquity, that the corbels and battlements are too light and shelly, wanting solidity and strength, and, accordingly, appearing to be, what in truth they are, flimsy imitations of a species of architecture, which, fortunately, the altered character of these days renders needless. In consequence of the peculiarity just noticed, much of the picturesqueness and imposing effect of ancient castles, depending greatly upon the bold and massy projections and deep recesses, so finely adapted for
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the repose of light and shade, is altogether lost. The site of Dromore Castle is, however, exceedingly favourable, being close to the bay, and, except for the defect before mentioned, possesses boldness and beauty. About three miles further, and about six miles from Kenmare, is Blackwater Bridge, a structure of considerable height, situated in a deep and thickly wooded ravine, through which the river dashes in a copious and noisy stream. The scenery here was remarkably beautiful, even in winter, being enlivened by a variety of exuberant evergreens; and, in the spring and summer of the year, it justifies, I doubt not, the high reputation it has obtained.
At Crookhaven, the next village we came to, are some interesting waterfalls, close adjoining the road. The country for several miles is one almost continuous mass of rock, interspersed with cabins, to which cabbage-gardens are attached. About the doors of these rude habitations may be seen a sheep or two, cattle, and pigs, waiting for a morsel of food — the latter impatiently screaming
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at the top of their voices — and the sheep industriously eating the core out of the cabbage stalks. These poor creatures are invariably the images of misery and starvation. Near Crookhaven is the park of Mr. Bland, whose two sons have neat places in the immediate neighbourhood.
At a place called White Strand, the road leads into the bay; and the tide being up at the time we passed along it, the driver seemed to be going out to sea. After passing through the water a short distance, however, he suddenly made a double round the end of the rocks, and regained the road. The people in this district were actively employed in collecting the sea-weed, for the purpose of manure; numbers of men standing up to the middle in the sea, catching the weed with long-toothed and long-shafted rakes, and hauling it ashore, whence it was conveyed in baskets by boys, who carried it on their backs to the land, for their next crop of potatoes. A trifling manufactory of frieze is carried on here, but, generally speaking, work is scarce. Some poor fellows whom I met, said that they could only get two or three weeks'
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work in potato-planting time, at 3s. per week: "they were," they exclaimed, "poor enough," and so indeed they seemed. Copper has been discovered in the mountains, but has not yet been worked.
Old castles abound in the course of the drive from Kenmare; and, from the high moors about two miles before we arrive at the descent to Darrynane, an extensive and noble prospect is commanded. The mighty Atlantic bounds this magnificent view, which includes, among other things worthy of notice, the mouth of the Kenmare river — the islands of Scarriff and Dinish, rising abruptly out of the ocean — the rocks called the Bull, Cow, and Calf, at the extremity of the peninsula which divides Bantry Bay from Kenmare river — and lastly, Darrynane House, and the ruins of Darrynane Abbey, reposing at the foot of the mountains, on the borders of Kenmare River, near the open sea. Having descended the hill, we overtook a company of men, boys, and girls, driving about thirty small horses and mules, laden with panniers of turf; they occupied
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the whole breadth of the road for some distance, and, on being asked where they were going, said, "We are taking turf to warm the Liberator."
It was Saturday evening, the 17th of December, when I arrived at Darrynane, and having left my letter of introduction to the proprietor, along with some other papers, in Dublin, I had an opportunity of proving the correctness of the statements which had been made to me at Kenmare respecting the hospitality of the abode. I had, in fact, no other introduction to Darrynane than that I was a stranger and an Englishman, but these were amply sufficient. I was received and treated with the kindest attention, and soon felt myself at home in the house of Mr. O'Connell. At Darrynane I spent the whole of Sunday, and remained there during the night of that day. The family, during my visit, consisted of Maurice O'Connell, John, and Daniel the younger (the Daniel was in Dublin) — two nieces of Mr. O'Connell, who were staying there on a visit, Dr. O'Connell, and Dr. O'Sullivan, the chaplain; Mr. Primrose, the land agent of the estate, and a
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magistrate — and several other gentlemen whose names I do not remember. Maurice O'Connell was unfortunately so far from well as to be unable to leave his room.
The day on which I arrived was a fast-day; the table, notwithstanding, was admirably supplied with a variety of fish — and some excellent Kerry mutton, for the use of Protestant strangers. Fourteen different kinds of fish, caught close to the place, are frequently on the table at the same time. The coast abounds with fish; as many as thirty turbot have been caught at one draught..
Darrynane House is an extensive pile of buildings, erected at different periods, and without regard to any particular order of architecture, or any prevailing uniformity of plan. Convenience, and the comfort of his guests, seem to have guided Mr. O'Connell in the enlargement of his mansion. In front of the house, stretches an extensive garden, at the end of which is a fine natural lawn of soft short grass — in spring and summer, the scene of various sports and pleasant recreative
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exercises. The sea, which here forms a cove or bay, comes close up to the lawn. The sands of the shore are firm and clean, and the waves of the bay, which struck me as being of a remarkably emerald hue, are interrupted, in their magnificent progress, by a few picturesque rocks. The ruins of the Abbey are at the opposite side of this small bay, a quarter of a mile from Darrynane house. A rookery presents a scene of perpetual animation to the north of the house; and in the same direction are extensive plantations, containing rustic bowers tastefully designed, and winding walks by the side of clear brooks. All these, of course, I saw under considerable disadvantages: but still I saw sufficient to convince me that Darrynane was a lovely spot. The air is peculiarly wholesome, and, during my stay there, a letter was received from Mr. O'Connell, anticipating with pleasure the enjoyments of his native place, and speaking with delight of deriving from its healthy climate a good stock of health to enable him to recommence the tug of war in St. Stephen's. When at Darrynane, hunting is his
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favourite exercise; and I was informed that he climbs the rugged mountains after his favourite pack of beagles, with all the untiring activity and buoyancy of youth.
Darrynane was a small abbey of Canons Regular of St. Austin, founded in the seventh century. Nothing now remains of it but the bare walls, the interior space being occupied by gravestones and skulls, of which immense numbers are piled together, bleached by the atmosphere. Within these bare and shattered walls lay the body of Mrs. O'Connell, but it was about to be removed to Dublin.
Learning that I had a wish to hear a sermon in Irish, the priest of the parish invited me to go with him to his chapel, a mile from Darrynane. About two hundred of his congregation attended, and though I did not understand the subject of the discourse, I was much impressed with the devoted manner of the worshippers, not only in this lonely chapel among the wilds of Darrynane, but in every part of Ireland with which I am acquainted. They who sneer at the religion of Roman Catholics, might
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be induced to forego their contempt, if they witnessed the consolation derived by the wretched half-starved Irish from the despised faith of their fathers. As a Protestant, I am led to dissent from many of the doctrines of the Church of Rome; but, having seen the power of those doctrines over the hearts and conduct of their votaries, I am admonished not to mingle my dissent with uncharitable vituperation. The sermon, I afterwards learned, consisted of quotations from the Holy Fathers, and of exhortations to prepare for death, by leading godly lives. Many employed themselves during the continuance of divine service, in counting their beads, but I did not observe any bibles or prayerbooks.
The minister of this congregation was a man of humble pretensions, but industrious and zealous in his calling. In the morning he rose before it was light, having to attend a chapel over the mountains, and, on his return, officiated at that near Darrynane. I accepted his invitation to join him at breakfast. This was a late meal for him; but the priests make it a rule, from which they seldom
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or never depart, to take nothing to eat before the duty for the day is finished. The dwelling of this unostentatious minister of the gospel was a very humble cottage or cabin, such as few labourers in England would consent to live in. "The Liberator," I understood him to say, "allows me this little farm of about twenty acres; I receive nothing from my flock except the labour they are inclined to give me upon my farm, when it suits their convenience." The congregation were remarkably clean and respectable looking, and are a stout and healthy people. They believe their ancestors to have been of Spanish origin, and feel some pride in the antiquity of their descent. From this feeling of family pride Mr. O'Connell himself is not quite free; making use of the circumflex over the "O," as an indication of Spanish origin.
The country about Darrynane would be greatly benefitted by the introduction and application of an improved system of agriculture. The farmers seem ignorant of the advantages of cultivating rape, turnips, and mangel wurzel — of mowing
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green food for cattle — or of alternate crops of corn and green food. A large part of the countryis composed of mountain. The wages of the labourers were stated at from 6d. to 7d. per day, with diet. The able-bodied men who are employed in the roads, receive 8d. without diet, but they have employment occasionally in fishing.
The mountains in the neighbourhood contain both lead and copper, but no mines are yet worked. Mr. Hartop, an English gentleman, has a royalty in the neighbourhood, and arrangements, I was informed, have been made with him by three Companies, viz., the Irish Mining Company, and two English companies, to open some mines in that part of the country. Kenmare Bay is accounted a safe harbour, and finely sheltered by ridges of mountains; there ought here to be a considerable trade in the export of minerals and agricultural produce.
Mr. O'Connell's ancestors originally had a lease of this district, from the Earl of Cork, and it still continues to be held under lease. The extent of the estate along the coast is about ten miles, the
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breadth three: and the profitable interest of Mr. O'Connell is said to be about £800 per annum. His income from land altogether (with an estate of his own at Tralee) is supposed to be £4,000 per annum. Mr. O'Connell is considered a good landlord; but in answer to those who have occasionally, whether from political feeling or sheer ignorance, insinuated otherwise, it may be observed that the majority of his property being in situations so unfavourable to cultivation, and being burthened with so many tenants, it would be next to impossible, even if they lived rent-free, to make them all comfortable. The previous occupier of Darrynane was an uncle of the present proprietor, and, in consequence of his extreme fondness for hunting, obtained the name of "Hunting Cap." Mr. O'Connell's brothers, James and John, have property in Cahirciveen. James is said to have a clear income of £4,000 per annum, in the county of Kerry, and John, whose fortune is also considerable, keeps a pack of hounds near Killarney. When Mr. O'Connell is at Darrynane, he keeps open house, entertaining large parties of gentlemen
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men from the surrounding country. In reference to the vast sum which he annually receives from his countrymen, and which has been so fertile a source of detraction and vituperation in some quarters, I was informed by a gentleman in the habit of visiting at Darrynane, that no person who had not passed some time with the distinguished owner, could have an adequate idea of the expenses entailed upon him in consequence of his peculiar position as a public man. "One morning," my informant added, "when I was with him at his house in Merrion-square, his letters and parcels for that morning only, amounted to upwards of £5."
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