Along the banks of the canal and river Barrow we walked to Cloghrennan Abbey, the property of Colonel Rochford. This venerable edifice, which was built in the reign of King John, is now used as a lodge and gateway to the more modern mansion; the road to which lies through a park of rich ground, interspersed with fine timber. The grounds and gardens attached to Colonel Rochford's seat are of considerable beauty.
Nature has done much for them, and art has wrought in the very spirit of nature. Retired and shady walks — rivulets, rocks, and verdant banks, clothed with myrtle, bay, and the luxuriant arbutus — combine or contrast their respective charms, to form a spot of enchanting beauty.
Near Browne Hill are the remains of a Druidical Cromlech, which we visited. The stones of which it consists are of granite: the supporters in front, four in number, being from six to seven feet above the ground. One has given way, and the cover accordingly rests on three. The stone which rests upon these supporters, and upon some others behind, is probably the largest known to have formed the flat stone of a Cromlech. The dimensions, as well as I could ascertain them, appeared to be as follows: — the diameter each way twenty feet, and the thickness six; from which it is calculated to weigh one hundred and eighty tons.
There are some spirited and skilful agriculturists in the county of Carlow, amongst whom Robert Leckey, the Secretary to the Carlow Agricultural
At Milford, near Carlow, the Messrs. Alexander have made extraordinary improvements in planting, in the construction of new roads, and in the erection of corn-mills, farm houses, and cottages. At the mills, from 40 to 50,000 barrels of wheat, and 40,000 barrels of oats are ground, and 30,000 barrels of malt made yearly: and here, and at the marble quarries of the same proprietors, upwards of 150 labourers, to whom they pay from tenpence to sixteen-pence a day each, are employed. They have also extensive mills at Belfast, at which 75,000 barrels of wheat, principally
At Carlow considerable improvements were in progress, and additional ones in contemplation. An extensive and increasing trade is carried on in timber, grain, butter, woollens, coal, and culm. The Barrow rises in the Slieve Bloom Mountains, and is here a fine broad river, affording safe navigation by the sea to Waterford, and northwards, by inland navigation, as far as Athy in Queen's county, from which there is a communication with Dublin by the Grand Canal.
On the banks of the Barrow stand the remains of Carlow Castle — two round towers connected by one side of a quadrangle. Dr. Myddleton, an English physician, obtained a lease of this ancient strong-hold, with a view of converting it into a Lunatic Asylum. In the course, however, of making the necessary alterations, two of the towers and the walls which connected them fell in with a dreadful crash, and put an end to the undertaking.
Carlow has a population of about 10,000, and was anciently inclosed within walls. The limestone
Carlow is well supplied with what is commonly called "stone-coal," obtained from the extensive mines in the vicinity of Castle Comer, in the county of Kilkenny. It emits neither flame nor smoke, and the fires which were composed of it, appeared to me lifeless and dull, though hot; the price varies from 10d. to 1s. 4d. per cwt., when delivered. These mines supply a great part of the counties of Kilkenny, Carlow, and Queen's county, and occasionally more distant parts; but, in the towns which border on the canals, the parlours of the gentry are generally supplied with English coal, designated "sea-coal." In consequence of the quantity of deleterious gas which it emits, the stone-coal is apt to affect those who are unaccustomed to it, with head-ache; nor is this the only injury it produces. Several instances of suffocation have occurred, in consequence of fires, made
At a ford in the river Barrow, a short distance from Carlow, there were found, a few years since, a great number of pieces of swords and various weapons, composed of the same mixed metal as the ancient arms usually dug up in Ireland; they are supposed to have been thrown away by a defeated Irish army in its flight, but no notice of such an event occurs in history.
From Carlow we proceeded to Kilkenny, having for some distance the placid Barrow on our right. In our way we visited the ancient and melancholy ruins of Old Leighlin, once a city, but now an inconsiderable village, pleasantly situated on green knolls by the side of a small river. The Abbey here was founded in the year 632 by St. Gobhan. Divine service is performed in a part of the old church, which is kept in repair for that purpose.
About four miles from Leighlin Bridge, which crosses the Barrow, and consists of nine arches, we entered the county of Kilkenny, and passed
Kilkenny (which signifies the Church of Kenny) is said to be the largest inland town in Ireland, and the pleasantest, whether inland or sea-port. It was formerly a place of great strength. The day we spent there was, however, unfavourable — a dense mist overshadowed both town and country, obscuring near, as well as distant objects. So dense indeed was the fog, that the summit of the Round Tower which stands within a few
Grose, in his Antiquities, speaking of Kilkenny, says, "This is a plentiful country, so populous as to be adorned with more towns and castles than any in the kingdom; and though it is mountainous in the south part, is said to have
thus having all the four elements in perfection. It is esteemed a healthful, as well as a pleasant country. It is remarkable for its coal mines, as well as for its marble quarries. Near Ossory are the mountains called Slievebloomey, or Bladen Hills, out of which spring the Suir, the Noer, and the Barrow. They descend in their several channels, but join in one before they fall into the sea. The Noer, or Nuer, divides this county into two parts." It is somewhat extraordinary that
- Fire without smoke, earth without bog,
Water without mud, and air without fog,
The cathedral is an interesting edifice, and was built in the year 1180. It is cruciform, and extends 226 feet from east to west — the length of the transepts being 123. The pillars, which some barbarian has whitewashed, are of black marble. Many monuments, chiefly in honour of the Butlers and the Ormonds, attract the attention of the visitor, but the most famous of all the contents of the place is the Chair of St. Kieran, said to be the first preacher of Christianity in Ireland — St. Patrick having followed him by thirty years. This chair is fixed in the wall — consists of black marble — and wears an excellent polish, for which it is indebted to the curious or the superstitious, who make a point of occupying it.
Kilkenny possesses the remains of three monasteries, all said to have been built by the Earls of Pembroke, and all interesting as relics of ancient power.
We took an opportunity of visiting the Presentation
Kilkenny Castle, built upon the banks of the river Nore by the Earl of Pembroke, in the twelfth century, on the site of one built by Strongbow, which was destroyed by the Irish twenty-two years before, commands a fine view of the town and neighbouring valley. In the fourteenth century it came into the possession of the Ormond family, who still retain it. The present Marquis is laying out annually large sums of money in rebuilding it. It is flanked by large round towers, one of which, to the right of the entrance, is of considerable antiquity. Seen from
The English town of Kilkenny is situated on the west side of the river Nore, — the Irish town on the east. The former is larger, and much better built. The population of both is about 24,000.
Blankets and frieze are manufactured at Kilkenny. There are also several flour-mills on the Nore. A pleasant walk along the river's bank, shaded by trees, leads to the marble quarry, about a mile from the town. Here we collected some specimens of marble, madrepore, and fluor spar. The marble, the demand for which has been considerable, is easily quarried, and is very beautiful — some of it resembling the Italian, veined. A few miles down the river, extensive marble works are carried on by Mr. Collis, who, we were informed, had twenty-four saws in active work. Kilkenny is also famous for its coal, similar to that whose qualities have been previously
Labour here is one shilling a day, without diet, but the labourers are employed only half their time.
A celebrated hunt, with fancy-balls and other amusements, takes place at Kilkenny twice a year, for about a week each time. This period is signalized, as our landlord remarked, by hard eating and drinking. The effect of the passion for hunting was observable in the superiority of the horses of the district.
From Kilkenny we had an interesting ride through Thomastown and the village of Innistiogue, to New Ross, passing several ruins and seats in our way — among others, Mount Juliet, the splendid mansion of the Earl of Carrick.
Thomastown stands on the Nore, and abounds in interesting ruins. One of these, a castle, belonged to Thomas Fitz-Anthony, a baron of the time of Henry the Second, and is said to
At Innistiogue we recrossed the Nore by a bridge of ten arches, near which is a salmon fishery. A short distance below the village, on the southern bank of the river, stands Woodstock, the seat of Mr. and Lady Louisa Tighe. Here the sensitive and fine-souled author of Psyche died. Woodstock is one of the most lovely places in Ireland, abounding in fine timber. On the western bank of the river is a wood, which covers no less than five hundred acres of ground.
New Ross, in the county of Wexford, about six miles from Old Ross, stands on the east bank of the Barrow, which is here a fine wide river,
After daylight, the town is in perfect darkness; and as the quay lies open to the river, people are occasionally drowned. I had myself the misfortune to experience some of the ill effects of the obscurity that prevails; for in going to dine with a gentleman at the further end of the quay, I came in contact with the shaft of a large hand-barrow, and was so much injured as to be nearly incapable of walking for several days. The streets are also in exceedingly bad repair, and consequently very dirty in wet weather.
It was here, in 1798, when the insurgents attacked the place, that Lord Mountjoy met his death.
From New Ross we drove down to the ruins of
From New Ross to Enniscorthy, a distance of twenty miles, we travelled by coach, through an uninteresting country that would have been entirely bare, had it not been for the gorse or whin hedges of dark green. These hedges, rising one above another in a continuous mass on the gentle slopes, had a velvety appearance, and in some degree compensated for the absence of trees.
Enniscorthy, close to which is Vinegar Hill, the scene of dreadful slaughter in the year 1798, retains marks of the injury it sustained when the insurgents had their camp adjoining it. The river Slaney, flowing smoothly through flat green meadows,
Enniscorthy has improved greatly during the last few years. A considerable trade in grain is carried on by means of the Slaney, which is navigable as far as Wexford; and about seven miles from the town a small manufactory of cotton is established. Besides its Saving Bank, Enniscorthy has a bank that accommodates the farmers by discounting bills so small as £3, with two or three names attached to them — in consequence of which arrangement they are enabled to purchase their
To the west of the town, half way between it and Mount Leinster, lead and silver mines were formerly worked; but the quantity of water that prevailed, caused them to be abandoned. A company was about to be formed for the purpose of recommencing operations.
Neither Lord Portsmouth nor his agent, I understand, are in the habit of giving encouragement to agricultural improvements. On Earl Mountnorris's estate, however, an Agricultural Society has been established, and there is another at Wexford.
In this neighbourhood, as in other parts of Ireland, the agricultural labourers are employed only about four days a week — their wages being tenpence a day during one-half of the year, and a shilling the other half, without diet. In harvest,
The Roman Catholics here are in the proportion, as respects the Protestants, of about seven to one. Many more children are educated now than formerly, but those of opposite religions do not mix in the schools; which here, as well as in many other places, are altogether abandoned by the Protestant clergy. It is greatly to be regretted, that gentlemen, whose superior education peculiarly qualifies them for cultivating the minds of the more ignorant of their fellow-creatures, should consider it their duty to decline participating in so noble and praiseworthy an object.
From Enniscorthy to Wexford, the ride for
On entering Wexford, a stranger cannot fail to be much struck with the singularity of the appearance of the town. The main street is exceedingly long and narrow; so narrow, indeed, as to suggest the idea, when seen from some
Wexford was one of the earliest English colonies. Its castle was built by Fitz-Stephens in the reign of Henry the Second, who, after receiving homage from most of the princes of Ireland, embarked from this place. Near the main street are the ruins of a church destroyed by Cromwell in 1649. Wexford, though an ancient town, contains but little of interest to the antiquarian.
From the Rev. Mr. Armstrong, whose acquaintance I was fortunate in making at White's Hotel, I obtained a note of introduction to Mr. Shelley,
Besides the estates in the neighbourhood of Wexford, Mr. Morgan possesses extensive property in the counties of Kilkenny, Carlow, Waterford, and Cork. His estates in Wexford contain 36,000 acres, whilst those in the other counties amount to not less than 24,000: the annual income of the whole is about £15,000; much of it being in lease — some at a rent of 3s. 6d. per acre. If the estate were out of lease, it would amount to £40,000 per annum. He is also said to have a considerable property in the funds. Mr. Morgan is a young man; hunting is his favourite amusement, and I believe his chief employment in the season. He had been improving and enlarging Johnstown Castle, the interior of which was furnished in splendid style. Though attached, however, to the sports of the field, this wealthy proprietor is far from being unmindful of the responsibilities which devolve
The inhabitants of the barony of Forth, in which Johnstown Castle is situated, being of Welsh extraction, the Welsh language has generally been spoken, and indeed continues to be so amongst the older people. The people of this barony are considered to be more industrious and provident, and to enjoy a greater degree of general comfort, than those of any other part of Ireland; and I could not help contrasting their fresh, rosy, honest faces, and fine athletic forms, as I met them going to Wexford market, with the sallow, thin faces, and attenuated frames, of the inhabitants of more distressed districts. The Rev. Mr. Hickey, who has done so much for his poor countrymen, under the assumed title of Martin Doyle, resides in this barony. The improved cleanliness, industry, and provident habits in his neighbourhood, are mainly attributable to his excellent advice and persuasion.
In the vicinity of Johnstown Castle, there is scarcely a grain field to be seen; with the exception of the small plots already mentioned, all is
The greater part of the road from Wexford to Waterford is uninteresting; in the earlier part, however, we had a fine view of the valley and the river Slaney, and afterwards of Saunder's Court, Carrickburn Mountain, and Vinegar Hill. To the right was Scullabogue, where above two hundred Protestants of both sexes were shut up in a barn by the insurgents, in 1/98, and all consumed by fire. Part of the walls of the building are still standing.