Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
The Miseries and Beauties of Ireland (Author: Jonathan Binns)

chapter 6

The Kenmare Arms, Killarney — Plans for exploring the neighbourhood — Ross Castle — Lead and Copper Mines — Scenery on the Lakes of Killarney — The Arbutus — Glena cottage — O'Sullivan's Punch-bowl — Dinis Island — The Eagle's Nest and Crane Mountain — Old Weir Bridge — Islands on the upper lake — O'Donoghue's Horses — Innisfallen — Return in the evening — Comparison of the Irish with the English Lakes — Agriculture of the district — Barony of Iveragh — Food of the labourers — Cowkeeping — Attachment of the tenantry to their native places — Crops — Butter and cheese — Cattle — Taxation — Manure — Cabins — Loan Society — Disadvantages of absenteeism — Lord Headley's property.

The only company I found at the Kenmare Arms, a very comfortable inn, was an elderly gentleman, whom I took for a clergyman, and a young gentleman from London. The latter, bound on the same errand as myself, agreed to accompany me on the following day in exploring the beauties of the neighbourhood. We accordingly devised a plan of operations for the morrow, and adopting the advice of Mr. Finn, the landlord, engaged a

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boat and four rowers to convey us round the lakes, with which a day, we were told, was sufficient to make us acquainted. The ensuing morning was cloudy and rainy, and I had some difficulty, first in getting my fellow-traveller out of bed, and afterwards in persuading him that the weather was not too stormy to admit of our venturing on the lake.

The lakes are more than a mile from Killarney. We were to embark at Ross Castle; and as my companion, who promised to follow, had not arrived, I beguiled the time by ascending the staircase of the ancient building, and had a view of the lake and several of its islands from the battlements. The castle is a lofty square building, and was formerly the royal residence of the Lords of the Lake, who bore the title of Kings. In 1652 it was defended by Lord Muskerry against an English force commanded by General Ludlow. This castle was the last place that held out against the English Parliament. In sailing by the shores of Ross Island, we passed near the lead and copper mines, supposed to have been worked at a very

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early period. They have been abandoned — probably for want of spirit and capital. Dr. Smith states that the copper mines were very productive, and that the adjacent mountains abound with iron: he also picked up specimens of ore containing some tin. On this island some of the rude stone implements, called Danish hammers, have been found.

My young friend and I were now seated comfortably in a swift-sailing boat, with four muscular rowers and a helms-man, and abundance of excellent provisions, supplied by our attentive landlord. The waves were somewhat larger, and the motion of the boat was somewhat less steady, than we had expected, but our conductors assured us of safety, and we relied upon their experience and veracity. The day, though probably not such a one as we should have selected, was exactly the sort of day to set off the captivating scenery to the best advantage. The sun shone occasionally through showers of rain (and this, of itself, is one of the loveliest of sights, the small drops turning to gold as he smiles upon them)

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and at other times, and even during the showers, lighted up, not only the distance, but near objects also, with his brightest and most splendid beams. The day was an alternation of sun and shower — a succession of delicious lights and shadows. Every rock, and lawn, and shrub, glittered with rain-drops, and their minute but perfect mirrors reflected and heightened every variety of colour in the landscape, from the extreme verdure of the arbutus, to the bright red of the boughs of the birch. Our course lay between Ross Island and Ennisfallen, across the lower lake; the Tomies and Glena Mountains, in this course, were seen in perfection. The sides of these mountains, which form the west and south-west banks of the lake, are completely clothed with arbutus, mingled with birch, for several hundred yards from the shore; and this was the season in which the colour of the arbutus, contrasted strongly with the red stems of the birch, is most vivid and beautiful. The profusion of the arbutus surprised me; it is as common as the furze or hazel in England, and reaches the size, and assumes

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the character, of a large tree, girthing as much as from seven to nine feet. I measured one of seven feet. They who have not seen the lakes of Killarney, can form no adequate idea of the abundance and exquisite loveliness of this plant.21

Passing Darby's Garden, we entered Glena Cottage, erected by Lord Kenmare, in the Gothic style of architecture, and surrounded by pleasure-grounds elegantly laid out. The cottage, however, does not seem to be sufficiently in keeping with the wild and natural look of the scenery about, to merit the ephithet "tasteful." According to my notions, it should have harmonized, instead of contrasting, with the character of the rugged and romantic neighbourhood. Another cottage has been built here by Lord Kenmare, and is devoted, with a praiseworthy liberality, to the accommodation of tourists and visitors. A heavy shower of rain coming on, we had an opportunity of feeling the benefit of his lordship's hospitality,

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for we occupied the apartments provided for the reception of strangers, and enjoyed the contents of our basket of provender. Those who fish, may here be regaled with salmon, pierced with arbutus skewers, and roasted over a turf fire; but as we had not time to indulge in fishing, we were obliged to forego that luxury. The Lakes of Killarney contain salmon, trout, char, and flounders, and, if the boatmen are to be believed, there is not a pike in the county of Kerry. The lower lake is four miles and a half long, by two in breadth.

The rain having subsided, we again embarked, passing Dinis Island, through a narrow channel, and then by a deep and sheltered basin, called O'Sullivan's Punch-bowl; all these places are peculiarly beautiful. Nothing perhaps can exceed the exquisite loveliness of the scenery about Dinis Island; and it is pleasant, when visiting it, to be informed, that the admiration of Sir Walter Scott was particularly excited by the charming peculiarities of this part of the lake. Dinis Island belongs to Mr. Herbert, who has also shown his

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wish to gratify the public, by erecting a cottage upon it for their accommodation.

The middle and lower lake are connected with the upper by a rocky channel, more than two miles in length, and flanked by a long range of rugged mountains, one of which is called the Eagle's Nest, in consequence of being the favourite building-place of that royal bird. This mountain is about 1300 feet in height, and of beautiful outline: it is connected with Crane Mountain, which is apparently much higher. The gracefully sloping sides of these hills are covered with arbutus and other luxuriant shrubs, down to the very water's edge; the woody raiment gradually disappearing towards the top — and the summit, grey with rugged rocks, being left quite bare. On entering this romantic channel, a rude bridge (Old Weir Bridge) had to be passed. Usually, the rowers abandon their oars, and drag the boat through by ropes, the opposing current being generally so strong as to render the passage by rowing impracticable. I was not aware of this; and was surprised to observe the men throw off

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their jackets, as we approached the bridge, and make an extraordinary exertion, taxing to the full the muscular power they possessed. They were successful; they passed the arch. Through this arch, only ten or twelve feet wide, and another smaller, flows the whole of the water of the upper lake, into the middle and lower lakes. Rowing through this arch, in opposition to the current, is a feat but seldom accomplished, and our rowers were accordingly somewhat elated with their achievement. The Old Weir Bridge has the appearance of great antiquity. The guides are in the habit of directing attention to a large rock, past which we sailed, bearing the name of the Man of War, from its strong resemblance to a vessel of the line.

The passage into the upper lake, not more than thirty feet wide, goes by the name of Coleman's Leap. In returning, visitors usually mistake a narrow passage at Coleman's Eye for the channel connecting the higher and lower lakes, and wagers are often made to depend upon the course taken. I, like the rest of strangers, took the

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wrong one. The upper lake is a mile and a half long, and, on an average, nearly a mile in width, is very much indented and irregular, covers an extent of from seven to eight hundred acres, and has numerous rocky islands, no less varied in appearance than in size. Eagle Island, beautiful in every respect; Ronan's Island, commanding a fine view of the lake; M'Carthy's Island, Oak Island, and the Seven Islands, rocky, and fringed with arbutus to the water's edge, have all claims to regard for some characteristic peculiarities of beauty. We caught a glimpse, and only a glimpse, for we had not time to make a more careful examination, of the Derricunihy Cascade, rushing down the mountain. Granah, the residence of John O'Connell, is on the border of this lake; and Lake Ville, the seat of his brother James, is about a mile distant. On returning by Old Weir Bridge, we crossed the middle lake, sometimes called Turk Lake, which is two miles in length, and a mile in breadth, at the further or east end; and going under Brikeen Bridge, entered the lower lake, and rowed to the celebrated

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island of Innisfallen, passing in our way Mouse Island, so called from its diminutive size, and O'Donaghue's Prison, a steep barren rock, anciently used by a chieftain of that name as a place of security for his prisoners. The reader who is familar with the Irish Melodies of Moore (and what reader is not?) will remember a singular tradition connected with this lord of the olden time. O'Donaghue and his White Horses, is a legend once implicitly believed, and even now received with some degree of partiality, if not credulity, by persons who certainly ought to be slow in attaching faith to an impossible but interesting story. For many years after his death, says Moore, the spirit of this hero is supposed to have been seen on the morning of May-day, gliding over the lake on his favourite White Horse, to the sound of sweet unearthly music, and preceded by groups of youths and maidens, who flung wreaths of delicate spring flowers in his path. Among other stories connected with this Legend of the Lakes, it is said that there was a young and beautiful girl, whose imagination was so impressed

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with the idea of this visionary chieftain, that she fancied herself in love with him, and at last, in a fit of insanity, on a May-morning, threw herself into the lake. The boatmen at Killarney call those waves which come on a windy day, crested with foam, "O'Donaghue's White Horses."

Innisfallen owes the extensive fame it has acquired, partly to its remarkable fertility, partly to the magnificent trees which ornament it, and partly also to its beautiful marble and the remains of its ancient abbey. It is said to excel in fertility any island in Europe; in beauty, it can scarcely be surpassed. In summer it must be exquisite indeed — a little world of silvan seclusion. The hollies and the ashes are of extraordinary magnitude: one of the former, at four feet from the ground, measured fourteen feet in circumference; and an ash, at two feet from the ground, girthed 35 feet. The cattle and sheep, which are fed upon the island in great numbers, are taken care of by a herdsman residing on the spot; who also acts as Cicerone when parties visit the luxuriant solitude. The surface of Innisfallen is rough, and though so

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singularly fertile, has the appearance of being in a wild uncultivated state. The Abbey stands near the landing-place; it is in complete ruin, and presents but little to interest the visitor, beyond the contemplations which all ancient ruins are calculated to awaken. There must be something defective in the constitution or educational habits of one who can look upon the shattered productions of man without instruction. The Abbey at Innisfallen was founded by St. Finian in the sixth century. In 1180 it was plundered, and its priests were slain. "According to the Annals of Munster," says Carr, in his Stranger in Ireland, "this Abbey and grounds were esteemed a paradise and secure sanctuary, in which the treasures of the whole country were deposited with its clergy." Near the Abbey is an ancient building with a Saxon door-way. The building has, however, been disgracefully modernised. The celebrated Annals of Innisfallen, written here, are preserved, I am told, in Trinity College, Dublin. They are in manuscript, and contain a sketch of the history of the world, from the creation to the year 430, from

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which time to the year 1320, they relate solely to the island.

As we returned, the moon rose brightly over Ross Castle from her throne of clouds, lighting up our path with sparkling beams, and touching the gentle ripples with a silver radiance. Occasionally the rowers chanted in their native language a favourite national song, resting on their dripping oars. Ross Castle, rendered still darker by being thrown into the shade, was our landmark, and formed a romantic finish to the scenery of this most interesting and memorable day.

Having now seen the Lakes of Killarney, I was enabled to draw a comparison for myself between them and the rest of the Irish Lakes, and the celebrated lakes of the north of England. Lough Neagh, the largest of all the Irish lakes, would be altogether uninteresting, were it not for its immense extent, and for the pebbles, the petrifactions, and the plants, that are scattered upon its shores. Lough Erne, the next in size, certainly surpasses Windermere, as a lake; in the neighbourhood of which art and nature are united with

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consummate felicity; and Lake Killikeen, and the other Lakes of Cavan, from their number, as well as their variety and beauty, are certainly entitled to take high rank among the lakes of "the Emerald Isle." Lough Gilly, though comparatively unimportant, when considered in reference exclusively to size, is a charming spot, infinitely superior, in my opinion, to Lough Erne. The islands upon it are bolder, the shores are not so flat, and are more variously indented; and the mountains, seen from its bosom, far surpass, in diversity and character of outline, those that encompass the latter lake. Lough Gilly also has a charm in its luxuriant arbutus, which Lough Erne cannot pretend to. But the Lakes of Killarney, attractive as many of the others unquestionably are, exceed them all in variety, boldness, and beauty. None of the lakes in Cumberland, Westmorland, or Lancashire, will bear a rigid comparison, in my opinion, with these.

I took sketches of the Eagle's Nest, and Crane Mountains, the Old Weir Bridge, O'Donaghue's Prison, and Mac Gillicuddy's Reeks; but as no

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lithographic representation can convey anything like an approach to the sublimity of vast and rugged mountains, or indicate the exquisite brightness and beauty of the arbutus, they repose quietly in my portfolio. Yet though imperfect as descriptions to others, they are infallible remembrancers to me; and frequently as I look upon their lines, the Past, with its many enchantments, rises before me, if not quite so vivid as it once was, at least with a milder, and perhaps a more delightful power.

The agriculture of the district around Killarney has little to recommend it. There are no turnips, rape, or clover. The potatoes are planted in beds, by the spade (lime being applied the preceding autumn), and are followed by wheat, oats, or barley. The land is then again manured for potatoes. I was gratified to find that the farmers keep a few sheep, and manufacture their own cloth. They also cultivate some flax, which affords them the enjoyment of spinning at home; it is then sent to be woven. Farmers of sixty or eighty acres keep about twenty cows, and their rent is

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calculated by the number of cows, from £3 to £4 per cow; the meadows and ploughing land being given in.

The Assistant Commissioners state that in the barony of Iveragh, which lies on the coast, to the west of Killarney, and is a mountainous district of poor land, bounded by the sea, and deeply indented by fine bays and inlets, running far in amongst the mountains, the food of the peasantry consists almost entirely of potatoes and salt; all other things being considered superfluities. They eat some fish occasionally, but sell their eggs. If a wife gives eggs to her family, she boasts of it. The labourers, even when employed, get only two meals a day. For the daily consumption of a family consisting of a man, his wife and three or four children, 42 lbs. of potatoes are required to keep them in health and strength; but this was above the average consumed by families of that size. In scarce seasons, it was stated, they would eat the flesh of cattle that die of disease, but they seldom are blessed with the opportunity.

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It appears, from the account given of this part of the country by Dr. Smith, in his History of Kerry, that the poor were better circumstanced when he wrote in 1756. — "The soil," he observes, "affords them milk, butter, potatoes, with a few oats; and their sheep and cattle which die by the rigour of the winter, supply wool and leather, which they work up into frieze coats and brogues." The new potatoes are not fit for food till the beginning of August, and during the interval that elapses between the consumption of the old ones and the new being ready, the cottages are often deserted by their inmates turning out to beg. Potatoes have been reduced to meal, for the purpose of preserving them, but the experiment was said to have failed. The people, from habit partly, and partly because, to use the words of one of the witnesses, "they like the feeling of fulness which they experience after eating quantities of potatoes," generally prefer them to bread, as a permanent food. "If," said the same witness, "I were to offer a man his choice for one meal, he would say bread; but if for a week, he would rather live on

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potatoes." In the barony of Iveragh there have been no disturbances for thirty years, with the exception of some slight ones in 1821.

Farms, said Mr. Fitzgerald, are usually let in common, amongst a number of small holders; half a dozen, or more, occupying specified quantities of the same farm, and paying separate rents to the landlord, according to the number of cows each is allowed to keep. If one of these tenancies becomes vacant, a new tenant is put in by the landlord, at the same rent as the preceding occupier paid. The new tenant could not well have his rent raised (it being calculated at so much a cow), without raising the rent also of all the old tenants, who hold cow-keepings on the same farm. The tenants agree amongst themselves what land each shall cultivate. The attachment of the tenantry to their native places is extraordinary, in a great number, perhaps in a majority of instances, interfering greatly with the advancement of their interests. It was stated by one witness that "they would rather remain in wretchedness at home, than go, with a prospect of a fair provision,

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elsewhere:" and Mr. James O'Connell stated "that in the parish of Dromed he had some tenants whom he was desirous of removing into the adjoining parish, and to land which they knew to be much better than that they were occupying; this desire, however, he was unable to fulfil — the refusal of the tenants arising solely, he believed, from a fond attachment to their native parish."

The greater part of the barony of Iveragh, consisting of about 99,540 statute acres, is mountain, pasture, and wet bog. There are some thousand acres of wet bog. Not one twentieth part of the barony is tilled; much of the rest might be brought into cultivation, but roads would of course be necessary. Within the last twenty years, a good deal of hill and grazing land has been brought into cultivation, and the same process is going on daily. There is at present, according to the evidence of Mr. James O'Connell and others, sufficient uncultivated land in the barony to employ all the labourers for many years. The district does not produce good wheat; summer fallows and the roller are unknown. The

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weeding of potatoes and oats is much neglected, and the ground is very subject to weeds. From inability to buy seed, sowing the land is sometimes omitted. In the spring of 1834 potatoes were dear and scarce, and there were many pieces of ground in the neighbourhood that had been dug and manured, and otherwise prepared for seed, in which potatoes were not set, the people being obliged to consume the potatoes which they intended to set, and being too poor to buy seed at the advanced prices. All their money, indeed, went to buy food; about £4000 was paid in this barony for potatoes for food, last spring.

The butter which is made here, is, for the most part, of third-rate quality. After each churning, it is laid in a heap on a flag, and increased until sufficient is collected to fill a firkin; this, with small farmers, is a work of from two to six weeks. It is not salted till put into the firkin. The principal market is Cork, but a great deal is sold at Tralee and Killarney. As for cheese, but little is made, and very little used in Kerry, or indeed in any part of Ireland.

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The Kerry breed of cattle, being particularly hardy, are said to suit the district; they live on steep and hard ground. The value of a good bull is about £2! — the price of a good breeding cow from three to four pounds. Heifers calve at three years old. All cattle are housed in winter. The smallest farmers keep them in their own cabins.

The taxation per acre in this barony is about 10 per cent on the rent; the grand-jury cess has been regularly increasing, being double what it was in 1813. Parish-cess is done away with. Tithes are charged on the rents, and average about 5 per cent. There is no tithe-free property in the barony, except a little glebe land.

Lime is too distant and dear to be commonly used for agricultural purposes: there is none nearer than Killorglin, twenty-eight miles distant. The small farmers carry sea-weed and sea-sand some miles from the shore, on their own backs and on asses, and great pains are taken to collect heath, furze, and fern, to put in the cattle yard for manure. The sea-weed on the shore and rocks is reserved for the neighbouring farmers, but that

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growing under the water is free to any one; this they cut with hooks fixed in long poles. In May and June large quantities of sea-sand are driven on shore; and being much more than the owners of the shore want, others are permitted to take it away. The influence of the sea-weed in this district as a manure extends only to one crop.

In the barony of Trughenackmy, a little to the north of Killarney, the average of wages is 6d. a day, with diet; but one of the witnesses examined, a Mr. Husey, stated that in summer, when employment is scarce, many men may be had for no other remuneration than a few potatoes and milk twice a day. The cabins in this barony are generally without pig-sties — the pig, when there is a pig, lives, like one of the children, in the house. The cost of erecting a cabin was stated to be £2. 10s. 6d., reckoning the door and timber at £1. 4s. 6d., and the labour and straw at £1. 6s.

In respect of the system of pawning, one of our rowers said that his jacket was then in pawn; though worth 7s. 6d., he should get only 2s. 6d. The pawnbroker, he added, if the articles sell for

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more than they are pawned for, never returns any money. It was agreed on all hands that a Loan Society would be very useful, and productive of much greater good than pawnbrokers.

In this barony, nine-tenths of the whole property are held directly from the proprietors in fee, without the intervention of middlemen. Trinity College has a considerable property near Killarney. The tenants of land held under non-resident landlords, were stated by some of the witnesses here to be in a decidedly worse condition than those who hold land under resident proprietors: "for instance," said Mr. Chute, "if I apply to my landlord's agent for any facility which I may require to improve my farm in any respect, he states that he has no power to grant it me, and refers me to a landlord, living at a distance, who knows but little of the circumstances; he refers me back to the agent, and, between the two, I get nothing done." When proprietors receive their own rents, they do not receive agents' fees in addition; but in signing leases, the agent, or the family of the landlord, often require compliments to be made. Tenants

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in common are constantly quarrelling and fighting; the least trifle is a source of disagreement. Lord Headley's property among the mountains is rapidly undergoing cultivation. He gives leases to his tenants, and stipulates to allow them for all the lime which they prove to have laid out on the land, at a rate not exceeding twenty-five per cent on their rents. Clauses of this sort, referring to matters of husbandry, might be inserted in leases with very beneficial effects. To the question whether it would be desirable for the landlord, the tenants, and the public, that the former should be compelled to take all improvements and growing crops at a fair valuation, at the termination of the lease, and that the tenants should be liable to pay damages for proved and wilful neglect of the land — it was answered, that "it would be unjust to the landlord: it would plague him in every way; he would never consent to let land on such terms; he wishes to choose his own time and place for improvements; and he knows when he can afford to make them."

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