Florence Court, the seat of the Earl of Enniskillen, nine or ten miles south-west of that town, is seated at the foot of a fine chain of mountains, and surrounded by extensive grounds, richly wooded. It contains some valuable works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Salvator Rosa, and other eminent masters. The Earl's property in this neighbourhood is said to be worth £14,000 a year. His lordship is an absentee.
The scenery about Florence Court is very beautiful, and near it is a natural curiosity, much visited by strangers. From a large cave, having the appearance of a rude broken arch, the Claddagh, a powerful stream, issues with great force — the several rivulets which supply it being all lost sight of, at or near Cats-pole, and running along a subterraneous passage for about three quarters of a mile. The rocks are of marble, and the entrance to the cave is accordingly called the Marble Arch. The Claddagh falls into the Arney river, east of Lough Nilley, called also Lough Macnean Lower. This Lough is three miles long, and nearly one broad; the cliffs and hills about it are remarkably precipitous, and a wooded rocky island with a cottage upon it, adds greatly to the picturesque effect of the scenery. Upper Lough Macnean, separated from the Lower by a road, is five miles long, and upwards of a mile in width.
Near Lough Erne are the ruins of four ancient castles, similar to Portora Castle, near Enniskillen. The lands adjoining this castle, were granted to
The neighbourhood of Enniskillen affords very beautiful specimens of double terminated rock crystals, detached as well as in groups; they are transparent and pure as water.
The price of provisions at Enniskillen was as follows: — Potatoes, from 2d. to 3d. per stone; mutton, 4d. to 6d.; butter, 7 1/2d.; beef, from 3 1/2d. to 5d.; fine salmon-trout, weighing six or 7 lbs., from 2d. to 3d. per lb.
Arthur Young gives us the following account of the prices of fish and fowls, when he was at Enniskillen in 1779: — "Wild ducks 3d., and powder and shot; plover, l 1/2d. and do.; woodcocks, 1d. and do.; salmon, 1 1/2d. per lb.; trout, perch, pike, and bream, so plentiful as to have no price; herrings, 3d. to 9d. per hundred; lobsters, 3s. 6d. to 4s. per dozen." He further says, "In 20 years there has been a rise of 2d. per day in labour. In provisions there has been a considerable
The practice of letting large portions of land to middlemen has been very prevalent here, but I trust is gradually getting into disuse. The county surveyor informed me that in a district of Fermanagh with which he was well acquainted, containing 3,500 statute acres, (1,000 of which is bog, unprofitable except for fuel) are 70 tenants, holding directly from the lord of the soil; and under these are 167 tenants, making in all 237 families. The direct tenants hold, on an average, 36 acres of green pasture and arable land from the lord of the soil, and retain 18 acres each in their immediate possession; the remainder they rent. The 167 under-tenants occupy less than 8 acres each, for which they pay such a high rent, that the portion retained by the direct tenants is actually rent-free to them. In many cases the under-tenants pay more than the entire head-rent, to which, if we add the difference in value between the portion kept (always the best of the land), and the part relet, an idea may be formed of the profit on one side, and the wretchedness on the other. It may be asked, why does the under-tenant
It is well known that farms are smaller in the north of Ireland — that land lets higher — and that outrage is less frequent. This may be partly attributed to the circumstance of the people having houses and little farms, a sort of home — and to an Irishman, a home, however poor, is dear. These give them a stake in the country, and make
The small farm system has few advocates, and has been very unfairly judged and decried. By those who do not take the pains to ascertain the difference, small farmers have been considered identical with the under-tenants already described, who are bowed down with wretchedness, owing to the exorbitant profits wrung from them by the middlemen.
On the 27th we left Enniskillen for Cavan, and had the advantage, as we went, of several transient, but lovely glimpses of Upper Lough Erne, our road lying on the eastern side of it. Near the head of the Lake, adjoining the county Cavan, is Crom Castle, the seat of — Creighton, Esq., previously mentioned as one of the best landlords in Ireland. He not only teaches his tenants to improve their farms, but assists them in doing it, and refuses to take more rent than he is persuaded the land is worth, although offered to him. If this system were generally adopted by Irish landlords, the country would soon be in a flourishing condition.
Near the church of Newton Butler on our left, some cows had been lately poisoned with oil of vitriol, an attempt at the same time being made on the farmer's life. The general opinion was, that though his house was stored with fire-arms, he would eventually fall a sacrifice to the malice of his neighbours.
This district of the county of Cavan is impoverished and neglected, many parts being overspread with furze and rushes. The town of Cavan contains nearly 3,000 inhabitants, and belongs to Lord Farnham. It is almost superfluous to state that we found here a Prison and extensive Barracks. The Court-house is a handsome building, and contains an excellent newsroom.
Lord Farnham has a seat in the neighbourhood. His lordship is an agriculturist — grows turnips, and ploughs with oxen. He has, moreover, exhibited great zeal in the establishment of schools for the religious education of the people, and employs what is called "a moral agent," who has the privilege, I was informed, of a house and grounds, and receives £300 per annum for his
Accompanied by the county surveyor, we travelled into the country for the purpose of giving notice of our intended examination. After crossing, at Butler's Bridge, the Erne, a clear river that flows into the loch, and passing a considerable lake on our left, and on the opposite side of the road, the ruins of an old church, we entered Belturbet, a pleasant town, conveniently situated for tourists, near the head of Lough Erne. Belturbet contains a population of about 2000, and has a considerable trade. A new bridge of three elliptical
On the road to Ballinaught, a small town to the southward of Cavan, we pass by the side of the Bishop of Kilmore's domains for a considerable distance. These noble grounds are well watered, beautifully wooded, and abundantly stocked with deer and pure Devon cattle, of deep red colour, and without a spot. The Bishop has lately erected a palace in lieu of the old one, which still exists, and is a capacious building in the Elizabethan style of architecture. It stands on a commanding eminence, and is surrounded by lofty trees. The new palace occupies a lower site, is built in the Grecian Doric style, and covered with Roman cement. It appears too lofty, and in other respects is not well proportioned. The drive from the public road to the house is badly arranged, being tortured into short curves, for which the character of the ground is not fitted. The present
The church and the grave-yard are in the vicinity of the old palace on the hill. The former has suffered deplorably from the attempts of some rustic Vitruvius to modernize its exterior: fortunately, however, a fine old Saxon door-way has escaped the touch of the spoiler, and, being of hard stone, retains much of its original beauty and sharpness of execution. In the church-yard are many ancient tombstones; but the most noticeable object within its crowded precincts, is the tomb (overgrown with shamrock) of the learned and venerable Bedell, who was consecrated bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh, in the year 1629. The memory of this excellent prelate is piously cherished by men of all parties, as, indeed, it deserves to be. Bishop Bedell caused the Book of Common Prayer to be read in Irish every Sunday in his cathedral, and sought to propagate his own religion, not by adopting hostile measures against those of the opposite faith, but by circulating the Scriptures and useful tracts among the people, and
Our examination at Ballinaught (in the barony of Loughtee Lower, near Cavan) commenced on the 31st of October; and here, before transcribing some of the facts detailed before us, I may be permitted to state, that in issuing our notices, and making the necessary arrangements for the performance of our duties, we invariably found the police extremely obliging, and ready to assist in promoting our plans. This body of men, whom I scarcely ever saw armed, appear remarkably well regulated, and are respected by the poorer classes for their moderation and propriety of conduct; — another proof that, under a conciliatory system of government, the Irish may be successfully managed.
The condition of the day labourers, who are increasing in number, has been gradually deteriorating for the last twenty-five years; in consequence, however, of so many young men emigrating to America, farm servants are more in demand than formerly. As to the wages of labourers, there are some periods of the year in which they get 8d. a day and their diet; but the
We had abundant opportunities of verifying, by actual inspection of the people in their houses, the concurrent statements of the witnesses as to the wretched condition of the clothing of the labourers; yet, notwithstanding their ragged state, they spend more than a penny a day in smoking, which happily appears to have superseded the pernicious habit of drinking. There is hot one-tenth of the drinking now that there was some years since. Here, as in other baronies, the
The labourer is attached to conacre, because it enables him to obtain his potatoes at the least expense. On his own labour he sets no value, inasmuch as he tills the conacre only during those days on which he can get no other employment. In the next place, he secures food during the winter; and, in addition to this, has small potatoes for his pig. The farmers manure and prepare the land for the reception of seed. The labourers then provide the seed and plant it; and afterwards weed and manage the crop. The rent, averaging £9. 9s. per Irish acre, is paid in money or work — sometimes in both. In one shape or other, the Assistant Commissioners met with the conacre system in every part of the province of Ulster. The Tyrone and Fermanagh cottiers are conacre takers, under another name; the cottiers pay their rents altogether in work, and are bound to give certain days in the week to the
The competition for farms of five or ten acres, the average size being from six to eight, is excessive: and for the tenant-right a man will give his last sixpence. The remission of rents is unknown in this part of the country: so also is the forbearance that allows a portion which the tenant is unable to pay, to stand over. The farms are generally tilled by hand labour.
In most parts of the barony, tithe had not been collected for the last three years; but the people were apprehensive that a large demand for the arrears might be made on them; "such a proceeding," said one of the witnesses, "would put the finishing stroke on us." As for the agriculture of the barony, it is, from want of skill and capital, in the worst possible condition; and, as far as the Assistant Commissioners could learn, no landlord, with the exception of Mr.
Many of the leases in the barony are held in common, twenty or thirty persons joining at a lease; but this most wretched system, as well as that of middlemen, is fortunately declining. The usual covenants of leases are those which oblige the tenant not to set or sell the land, on the penalty of forfeiting his lease. With the exception of a provision against burning the land, they contain no clauses enforcing a particular system of farming, nor any specific regulations for the guidance of the tenant. Some of the proprietors charge duty-money and agent's fees. The land-agent also gets a compliment of from one to four guineas; four guineas, for instance, for a rent of nine. But little money is given here for the goodwill of a farm, without a lease — a circumstance that indicates a less degree of confidence than exists in other counties.
Since the commutation of tithes, and in consequence of it, the produce of grain has considerably increased. Previously, the titheable land, when
The rent of land is from £1. 5s. to £2. 15s. per Irish acre; for the mountainous districts, suitable only for pasture, 16s. is paid. The grand jury cess varies from four to six shillings a year per acre; it is considered exceedingly unequal and oppressive, and is bitterly complained of by every body.
The farmers here, as in Fermanagh and Tyrone, complain that although they pay heavily towards the roads, they are much neglected; and I can bear testimony to the justice of their complaint, for never did I travel upon such shocking roads, as in parts of this county, and that of Tyrone. I
The soil of Upper Loughtee is, for the most part, weak and light, upon a greenstone or basaltic rock. In Lower Loughtee it is rather shallow, upon clay and limestone gravel. The usual rotation is very scourging and impoverishing; and when the land has been deprived of its productive powers, it is left to nature and time, till ready for a repetition of the former operations.
Some of the large proprietors, we were informed, had dislodged their Roman Catholic tenantry, because they were Roman Catholics. "Twenty families," said a witness, "are under notice to quit to-morrow. In 1826, a hundred and sixty persons were turned out in this parish; some lay in sheds, and outhouses, and road sides; others went to America. But the people, notwithstanding, are peaceably disposed, and have no idea of avenging their injuries." "Nothing," said another witness, "but the greatest oppression will induce the people to commit murder."
Owen Gray, one of the witnesses, said that
We visited, among others, the residence of the last witness. A drawing of it is given on the opposite page; and let me beg the reader, whilst inspecting it, to remember, that it is a correct representation of the dwelling of a man and his wife and their seven children! The whole length inside was 20 feet, the width eight, and the mud and sod walls were 3 1/2 feet high. The principal apartment in the centre was used as a day room. Two small places, entirely dark, one at each end of the house, formed the sleeping apartments. They were five feet six inches wide. The only light that cheered the dwelling of Owen Gray was admitted through the door-way, an aperture nearly four feet high. The whole of the furniture consisted of four old broken stools, about a foot in height; as for a chair, it
The trade of Ballinaught has decreased. Formerly, £150 a week used to be spent in the town in the purchase of brown linens, and now there is not so much as £60 expended. The cotton trade in other places has superseded it.
It was the market-day at Belturbet when we arrived there; and the street, filled almost to overflowing —
A strange sort of food, unknown to us, is a saleable commodity in this part of the country. It consists of the carcases of calves which are killed immediately on their coming into the world. During the calving season, as many as thirty are brought into the market at Ballinaught, and sold at from 4d. to 7d. per quarter. The flesh is scalded in water, and fried with bacon. The dish, when thus cooked, is called "Staggering Bob," and is represented as very luscious. The labourers, however, are seldom, if ever, favoured with a taste of it.
What is often sold as beef is more usually called "Bullockeen" (a young bullock). It would be burnt in England, as unfit for food. Under the term "Bullockeen," however, the carcases of animals that are too old to be fattened, of lean cattle that die of disease, and of cattle that have been stolen, are comprehended. Eggs were sold at 2 1/2d. per dozen; and it may be a question, I think, whether they are as nutritious as English eggs, the hens being fed on nothing but potatoes. Fine trout, weighing from six to ten pounds a piece, fetch 1 1/2d. and 2d. per lb. In respect of fish the Irish have a great advantage over us; the rivers, lakes, and coasts, abounding in almost every variety, of superior size and flavour.
Our examination at Belturbet, of the barony of Lough tee, (county Cavan), was attended by several magistrates and influential men in the neighbourhood, who evinced a lively interest in the objects we had in view, and politely offered to forward them to the utmost of their powers.
Major Bailey informed us that nowhere in the world could agriculture be in a more deplorable
The land from Belturbet to Killykeen, nearly
One little inlet on the shore of the lake of Killykeen I shall not soon forget. After descending a bank by a road overhung with trees, whose branches met and screened us from the sun, we came suddenly upon the little creek, whose borders were fringed with reeds and a variety of luxuriant aquatic plants, among which the fish and the water-fowl found a secure and delightful abode. Near this wild and secluded spot, upon the very brink of the lake, is a thatched cottage, tastefully ornamented with rustic wood-work, and deeply embowered in shady trees. The unexpectedness of this lovely retreat — its perfect solitude and stillness — the variety of the surrounding scene, the rich woods, the verdant hills
- Those beauteous forms,
Through a long absence, have not been to me
As is a landscape to a blind man's eye:
But oft, in lonely rooms, and 'mid the din
Of towns and cities, I have owed to them,
In hours of weariness, sensations sweet,
Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart,
And passing ev'n into my purer mind
With tranquil restoration.
On this lake stand the remains of Lough Outee Castle, where Bishop Bedell was confined for refusing to give up some Protestants whom he had sheltered in the rebellion of 1641. Killykeen lake also contains an island called Trinity Island, to which we went in a cot with two rowers. The boat was a very frail one and had no seats; we provided ourselves, however, with two old chairs, and by sitting perfectly still, according to injunctions, and not looking round, we succeeded,
This is indeed the land of lakes. The land and water might have agreed to divide the country between them. The several lakes are connected one with another, their respective waters forming the river Erne, which, as before stated, flows into the extensive Lough of that name. This district would afford abundant amusement to the tourist for a few days, especially if he possesses an amphibious taste.
At Cavan, we took up our residence at the Farnham Arms. The Irish waiters, I may here observe, are very ready to promise, but frequently slow in their performance. Decidedly the best
The mountainous parts near Cavan contain several illicit stills. A gentleman told me that the whiskey made at them is very commonly used, and that persons who buy it, frequently attend for the purpose of seeing the process, and ascertaining that the spirit is manufactured from proper materials. It is then conveyed home to the purchaser by night, and hid in a place of security.