Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
The Miseries and Beauties of Ireland (Author: Jonathan Binns)

chapter 11

Devenish Isle — Pillar Tower — Monastery — Stone coffins — Ely Lodge — Lough Erne — Comparison of this lake with Windermere — Castle Coole — Wild water-fowl — Instance of Irish industry — Belleisle — Examination at Lisbellaw — Wages of farm servants — Spirit-drinking — Clothings — State of the population — Average size of farms — Agents' fees — Objections to a poor law — Inequality of the cess — condition of the people deteriorated since 1799 — Soil of the barony — Cairn on the Topped Mountain — Distant prospect — Interior of a cottage at Ballinamalard — Some remedy for the general destitution absolutely necessary.

Devenish Isle, on Lough Erne, (little more than a mile from Enniskillen) is rich in objects of antiquarian interest. Here are the ruins of an abbey and a monastery, between which stands a pillar-tower, thought by some to be the most beautiful of any of those mysterious buildings. The height has been variously stated at 90, 76, 82 feet, and 82 feet 10 inches, and the circumference from 41 to 48 feet. The differences in the measurements

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of the circumference may be accounted for from its being wider at the bottom than the top.

The walls of this remarkable structure are of hewn stone and mortar, and are 3 feet 6 inches thick. In the uppermost story are four windows, corresponding with the cardinal points, and above each is a keystone, ornamented with a sculptured human head. The conical roof is supported by diminishing courses, and finished by a well-shaped capstone. In the inside the tower is smooth, except for projecting rests, presumed to be for the support of floors. Additional interest attaches to this remarkable monument when viewed in connexion with its venerable companions in ruins, particularly the monastery or upper church, with its beautiful little ivy-mantled tower. The basement story is groined, and through the ceiling, which is of limestone, two apertures are worn smooth by the passing of the bell-ropes. The carving of the fluted architraves is very perfect. In a spiral staircase leading to the battlements of the tower is a tablet bearing an ancient inscription, dated 1449, signifying

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that Bartholomew O'Flanragan was prior. In another part is a niche, exhibiting the arms probably of the founder. The buildings are composed of a dark limestone found on the borders of the lake. The monastery or abbey is supposed to be of a much earlier date, and has suffered in a greater degree from the effects of time. These religious edifices are said by the Rev. G. N. Wright to have been founded by Lasrean, also called St Molaisse, a native of Carberry near Sligo, previously to the year 567. The day of his decease, the 12th of September, being well attested, was for many years observed as a festival in the island. Each of the buildings formerly possessed a bell, but at the suppression it was directed that they should be carried to Armagh. On this occasion (which is supposed to have been the anniversary of the Saint's death), one of them was conveyed safely over the lake, but the boat containing the other, sunk; — the place where the bell is supposed to lie, is pointed out. A little to the south of the ruins is a stone coffin, the interior assuming the shape of a human body. This

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coffin is called Molaisse's bed, and is renowned for the virtue it possesses in the removal of diseases, and for the good fortune conferred upon those whose shapes it happens to suit.

The burial-ground in Devenish Isle is still used as a place of interment. The funeral party embark at the opposite shore in the cots above-mentioned, and incur considerable danger in the passage across. A few years ago seventeen persons were drowned on an expedition of this sort; but an old woman and two men, who clung to the coffin in their extremity, were saved.

Devenish Isle contains 120 acres, a considerable part of it rich grazing land without a tree. The rent, I was informed, is £110 per annum. One solitary cottage, occupied by a herdsman, is the only inhabited building on the island. The sheep are boated across, and the cattle driven through the shallow part of the lake called the Friar's Leap.

I have frequently had occasion to speak of the superstition and credulity of the people. At the monastery here an extravagant tale was related

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about the stone with the inscription having being conveyed to the county jail at Enniskillen, but the men not being able to prevent it from falling, were obliged to replace it in its original situation.

From Devenish Isle we proceeded to Ely Lodge, the seat of the Marquis of Ely. This mansion is beautifully situated on one of the islands of Lough Erne, and we saw it to great advantage. The foliage wore the peculiarly rich and yet pensive hues of autumn — and the day, hushed, and calm, and breezeless, was in character with the season. The company of soft and silver clouds that gathered about the sun, and shaded his glory without obscuring it, were reflected within the bosom of the clear and waveless lake.

Lough Erne is allowed to be the Windermere of Ireland, but in extent and in the number and beauty of its islands it far surpasses our Windermere. On the Queen of the English lakes there is no island in the least degree comparable to that on which Ely Lodge is situated, nor am I aware that this, though the largest and most beautiful

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I have visited, is the finest. The mountains at the head of Windermere are certainly more striking and picturesque than any scenery Lough Erne can boast, which is generally of a richer and more fertile and luxurious description; but compared with Lough Erne, Windermere is an extensive pond.

Ely Lodge is a plain structure with painted walls, but the park and pleasure grounds are truly beautiful. The mansion is approached over a strait of the lough by a handsome bridge, at the end of which are massive iron gates, well barricaded, and committed to the custody of a porter. Within these gates the road winds gracefully round a hill, on the summit of which the house is situated. The grounds abound with wood — and here and there vistas, of rather too artificial an appearance, afford glimpses of the lake.

In our way to Ely Lodge we passed through the estates of the Rev. Mr. Reed, who is spoken of as a kind landlord, and lets his land at 15s. and 16s. per Irish acre, for which other landlords would get 25s. Here we conversed with a respectable

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looking man, who farms less than five acres. He and his wife appeared perfectly happy, and supplied another proof that small farms are not incompatible with prosperity.

A mile and a half to the south east of Enniskillen Lord Belmore has a superb mansion, Castle Coole, considered to be the most splendid piece of architecture of the kind in Ireland. It is built in the Doric and Ionic style, of beautiful Portland stone, highly ornamented, and finished with frieze and entablature. A noble portico, consisting of four columns, and extending to the height of the building, supports a well-proportioned pediment. This splendid and classical edifice, in which beauty and utility are united with admirable skill, was designed by Wyatt about the year 1790, and is said to have cost upwards of £100,000. The site, without being too high for shelter, is sufficiently high to command a magnificent view of the surrounding country. On the summit of a green hill to the east of the house is an ancient rath, whose outer rampart contains a number of thorn trees, apparently some centuries old.

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In the domain are several lakes, stocked with wild fowl. On one in particular they are preserved with great care. The water seemed almost covered with bald coots, wild ducks, widgeons, divers, teals, bitterns, wild geese, and swans, all of which, confident of security, allowed us to approach within a short distance, without betraying any symptom of alarm. The grounds contain a good deal of fine timber. Some Spanish chestnut trees in front of the house measure seventeen feet in circumference, five feet from the ground. Here too, I was gratified by seeing numbers of poor men employed; and from the character of their work (which consisted chiefly of filling up hollows, making smooth what nature had made rough, and removing hills where hills were ornamental), I should infer that they were engaged more with a view to their own advantage than to any real benefit that might accrue to Lord Belmore from their labours. His lordship resides at Castle Coole three months in the year.

Many of the tenants from a great distance were attending with their carts, to take away poles of

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Scotch, spruce and silver fir, lately cut out of the plantations, and given to them by their landlord for roofing their cabins. A cart-load was not worth above 12s., and was conveyed upwards of thirty miles, the poor fellows being out on their journey two nights and three days, and travelling, both ways, no less a distance than sixty miles for a load of wood which certainly would not last more than six or seven years. Who, with such facts as this before him, can deny that the Irish are industrious and persevering — These men, I was informed, would only expend a few pence on the road, eating nothing but a piece or two of bread. Indeed, they think lightly of difficulty, when a worthy object is to be obtained. Many of them travel several miles for days together, to obtain work, and though often disappointed, still persevere. When they succeed, they only get 10d. or 1s. per day at the most.

Belleisle, the property of the Rev. Gray Porter, is situated on the higher lake, and in addition to its beauty, is remarkable as being the first grant made in Ireland after the confiscation. It contains

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upwards of 300 acres, and was originally the property of a Lord Ross, who from this island took the title of Lord Belleisle. It descended by marriage to Sir H. Hardinge, who sold it to the present proprietor. The house, once famed for its hospitality, is now a ruin.

On the 20th and 21st of October we held our examination in the school room of Lisbellaw, a village between five and six miles south-east of Enniskillen, on the border of the barony of Tyrkennedy, and containing about 250 inhabitants.

We ascertained that owing to the declining means of the farmers, employment for labourers had decreased; at the same time, the wages of farm servants were on the rise. This apparent contradiction is explained by the fact of this class of labourers being the most eagerly sought and the most difficult to obtain; for as soon as they can collect a little money, they almost invariably emigrate. The income of a labourer will not enable him to make any provision against casualties.

The same cause which had decreased the employment of labourers, had contributed to render

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spirit-drinking less prevalent. "The sale of spirit," said one of the witnesses, "is greater when the money is stirring."

In respect of clothing the labourers were stated to be wretchedly off. The yearly expenditure of a family for clothes was calculated to amount to about £2; but it was added, that many did not spend six shillings during the twelve months, for this purpose. They have no shoes; "some of them, 'tis true, have things on their feet," (to quote the words of the above witness) "to keep them from the stones, but they are of no use." The pawnbroking system is the same as in Monaghan.

Again and again were we informed that the small tenants were in a wretched condition, the entire body of them being in debt, to the amount of at least one year's rent. It was said to be impossible for a man, paying as much as from thirty shillings to two pounds an acre, to live comfortably — as to making money, that of course was out of the question. So greatly reduced was the capital of the farmer, and confidence had received

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so severe a shock, that it had become more difficult to borrow £5 than it was ten years ago to borrow £50. This change is attributable to high rents and low prices; trade, moreover, is gone, and the looms are standing idle in the farmers' houses. Yet, notwithstanding all these things, it was stated that if a farm of five or ten acres were vacant, there would be as many bidders in the barony as acres on the farm. The question with a bidder is not what the farm is worth, but what offer would be likely to secure it.

The average size of farms is from ten to twelve Irish acres. The rent of the larger ones is £1.10s. per acre; that of the smaller ones from £1, 15s. to £2, and sometimes even more.

The principal proprietors in this barony are two noblemen, but the gentry are numerous. It was stated to be the custom here, and a truly disgraceful custom it is, on the signing of a lease, for the agent, his wife, his sister, or his clerk, to receive a compliment in money, equal to about one year's rent.

The barony consists principally of tillage farms,

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about two-thirds of them being under the plough. The rotation is, 1st — potatoes manured; 2d — oats or flax, and afterwards as many crops of oats as can be got; after this "they let it out," that is, the ground is left to nature. Clover, vetches, trefoil, rye-grass, or other artificial grasses, are little, if at all, grown in the barony. Neither turnips nor mangel wurzel have found their way, nor has any improvement taken place in the breed of cattle or sheep.

A great dislike was evinced on the part of the meeting to the objects of the Commission on which we were engaged, lest it should lead to an additional burden in the shape of poor-rate; and all present were strongly opposed to the establishment of a poor law, alleging that if at first it would require only one shilling per acre, it would very soon be 2s. 6d. The poor householder upon whom the burden would fall, is often, they stated, worse off than the travelling mendicant; they accordingly preferred being as they were. "We might help the poor," they said, "for some years, with what the houses would cost; we think we do not miss

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what we now give." And on being asked what they conceived it cost them at present in charity, the indignant reply was, "We should be ashamed to keep any account of what we give to the poor." In favour of a poor-law it was remarked, that the absentees would then have to contribute, and that under the present state of things the itinerant beggars, who carry disease and immorality through the country, would be taken care of.

Here, as in other places, complaints were made respecting the inequality of the cess. Some pay ninepence, others 2s. 4d. for the same quality of land. One end of the barony pays twice as much as the other; that which pays the least being the better land.

By comparing the account given in 1779 by Arthur Young, with the facts elicited in the course of this examination, it will be evident that the condition of the lower Irish, instead of being improved, is considerably deteriorated since his valuable book was written. "The people," says he, "in the neighbourhood of Castle Caldwell on Lough Erne, increase very fast, and are much more industrious

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and in better circumstances than some years previously. Their food, for three-fourths of the year, consists chiefly of potatoes and milk, and during the other quarter, of oatmeal. In the winter they have herrings. They have all a bellyful, whatever it is, and keep cows." — (P. 224, vol. i.) And at p. 231, alluding to Enniskillen, he says, "Some live on potatoes and milk, for they all keep cows, and have flesh meat." At page 241, in reference to Florence Court — "Their food is potatoes, oaten bread, and a bit of beef or bacon in winter. They all keep cows, most of them pigs, and even poultry."

The soil of this barony varies considerably; near to Enniskillen is a rich loam, in some instances on a clayey, and in others, a peaty subsoil — the low moist lands being occupied as meadows and pastures. The grounds of medium elevation are chiefly arable, and consist of a good brown loam upon a moderately retentive subsoil, and, if properly cultivated, are capable of great fertility. The remainder of the barony is of a light brown soil, frequently upon a clayey gravel, or

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consists of a moory or peaty soil upon clay. Cornagrade, near Enniskillen, affords good limestone, from which a great part of the barony is supplied.

On returning from Lisbellaw to Enniskillen, we followed the direction of a stream, which flows through the village into Lough Erne. By the brook-side we observed some neat comfortable looking habitations in the English cottage style, white-washed and surrounded by trees and orchards. As we had to pass near the Topped Mountain, we took the opportunity of crossing its summit, from which, although only 909 feet high, nine counties are seen; and Lough Erne, with its numerous islands and inlets, may be distinctly traced. The summit of this hill is remarkable also for a cairn, said to contain the graves of three Danish princesses. This cairn is a large mound of stones, 250 feet in circumference, covered with sods and grass. From this eminence we had the pleasure of recognising the mountains of Bessy Bell and Mary Gray; up the former of which, now nearly forty miles distant, we toiled from

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Omagh; to the east, the mountains of Monaghan, forty or fifty miles off — to the south, those of Cavan, and to the north, the mountains of Donegal, and Tyrone, Sleu Culkagh, Knock Ninny, and others in Fermanagh. The domain of Castle Coole lay beneath us like a map.

At Ballinamalard, where we next attended, are several miserable hovels, into one of which I took the liberty of creeping. It was inhabited by a feeble old woman of eighty-five, named Jane Lee, and her daughter. The interior measured nine feet six inches, by eight feet two inches. The furniture consisted of two small four-legged stools, about eight inches high, and seven inches broad; a small pan, and part of a wanded basket, which would scarcely hold together; but out of which the poor old woman was eating her dinner of potatoes. A half-starved cat was mewing most piteously — and in a corner of this desolate apartment, on the clay floor, a quantity of straw lay, with a sort of blanket over it. This served the purpose of a bed, and was obliged to be moved from one side of the hut to the other, to avoid the

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rain falling on them, through the scanty roof. In another corner lay a few seeds, or oat husks, from a neighbouring mill; this formed all their supply for the fire. The floor was exceedingly damp, and adjoining the wall was a small trench, or ditch, to hold the water in; from which unusual sort of reservoir it was collected, and thrown out of the cabin. The door, two feet wide, and four feet six inches in height, extended to the eaves. The hut had no chimney; and that which bore the name of window, consisted of a morsel of glass, 4 1/2 inches in diameter, which the kindness of a neighbour had contributed. The old woman had not been able to pay any rent lately, and the landlord accordingly would not be expected to thatch her dilapidated residence. She was, therefore, obliged to get some one to do it, and begged and scraped a little straw together as she could, for the purpose. The walls of this wretched abode were built partly of stone and mud, and partly of sods. Jane Lee had lived in it eleven years, and appeared, as the reader does not require to be informed, in a state of the greatest destitution and

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distress; the daughter was afflicted with illness, the consequence of a severe cold. The widow said she was able in summer to beg a little buttermilk to her potato, but not in winter; she would rather have a piece of a herring than buttermilk, for it was more tasty. An expression of what I am sure was genuine gratitude, followed the bestowal of a small sum of money. She had been the mother of three sons, two of whom had perished in the army; the other went to America, and she had never heard of him since.

The cottage which I have attempted to describe, is situated — not on a lonely and uncultivated moor or bog, far beyond the reach of civilization and the comforts of life — but in the midst of a considerable village, and in the vicinity of wealth. The misery, of which it is but a solitary specimen, is not confined to the idle and dissolute, but extends to the industrious and the meritorious. In Ireland indeed, merit loses its value, and industry becomes discouraged and paralysed under the impossibility of being rewarded. Humanity and justice require the application of some effectual remedy

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for this acknowledged evil, and it is to hoped that the wisdom of the legislature may speedily supply one. If the subject is beset, as it undoubtedly is, with difficulties of formidable aspect, it should be borne in mind that the sufferings to be relieved are formidable also.

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