The vicinity of Monaghan is highly cultivated, and ornamented with wood and plantation. A little south of the town, Dacre Hamilton, Esq., has a seat and a park-like domain, covered with flocks of good Leicester sheep. On the road to Castle Blayney is Castleshane, the seat of E. Lucas, Esq., M. P. The grounds are very beautiful —
At Tydavnet is a very ancient grave-yard, the oldest in the county. A church formerly stood in it, but not even the foundations now exist. The ancient Lords of Monaghan, it is said, were buried here. I observed many dates of so late a period as 1700, and one as early as 1591. The earlier ones were effaced by time. In this churchyard we were present at a conference respecting some projected improvements, and were highly gratified by witnessing the friendly terms maintained between the Protestant clergyman and the Catholic priest.
Two miles from Monaghan the Earl of Rosmore has a spacious park, and is building a new castle in the Elizabethan style. Fifteen miles from Monaghan, at Coothill, in the county Cavan, is a Friends' Meeting-house, which I attended on the 30th. It is built within the boundaries of one of the ancient raths. The number of members is only eight, but this small congregation is sometimes
The first few miles of the road from Monaghan is over a high and poor district, the soil of which is of a moorish quality, well adapted to the growth of flax, and numerous patches of this valuable plant were met with on our journey. This part of the country is remarkable for the number of its raths, most of them consisting of only one rampart. As we proceeded, we passed through several congregations of Catholics and Protestants, going to or returning from their respective places of worship. The numbers bespoke the existence of a dense population in a poor and apparently remote region. The contrast of the white and scarlet of the women's dresses produced an effect similar to that previously described as having been observed at Hilltown.
On leaving Rockcurry, which is built on rock, we descended into one of the noblest countries I ever beheld. From Lord Cremorne's grounds (through which, by the permission of the noble owner, I drove) we had a fine view of Dawson
Ballymire, near to Clones, is a delightful village, having a stream flowing through it. On this stream stand two mills. In the houses and gardens considerable taste is displayed, chiefly by some ladies who reside here, one of whom was laudably occupied in building a school-house, and establishing a school.
During this journey it was my lot to experience some of the unpleasant effects of the notorious carelessness of the Irish drivers. In going down a hill, in the usual reckless manner, one of the wheels flew off, the driver was violently thrown from his seat, the horse galloped off at full speed, and the car was kicked to pieces. The driver was dragged along the road for some distance, and I
Clones, which belongs to Sir B. Thomas Leonard, son of Lord Dacre, the former owner, was successively called Cluaneois, Clunes, Clunish, and Cloyne. The market place is adorned by a fine old carved cross, surmounting a flight of steps, and beautifully ornamented with sculptured figures of animals. Here, too, are the ruins of a monastery built in the sixth century, and dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. In the graveyard, on the opposite side of the road, the tombstones that lie scattered about are of curious and antique forms, with raised letters in front, and significant carvings on the back. Amongst others, the Scotch thistle frequently appears. In this yard also stands the celebrated Pillar Tower, the top of which has been broken in upon by time. This tower (Sir Charles Coote informs us) contained five stories; the walls are, at the base, four feet thick; at the top, two; and the diameter
At the house of the Rev. Mr. Bogue, a Roman Catholic priest, about five miles from Clones, I met the Rev. Mr. M'Mahon, the Rev. Mr. Duffy, also Roman Catholic priests, Dr. Kellet, a Protestant, and other gentlemen. Mr. Bogue prides himself upon his climbing roses and shrubs, which he was pleased to say were in the English fashion. His ornamental garden was indeed a
Monaghan, although the capital of the county of Monaghan, is a poor place with very little trade, and contains only about 4000 inhabitants. It branches out into triangular spaces, in other towns usually called squares, but here designated diamonds — the first, second, and third diamond. The church is an ancient building, with an ugly narrow tower, an irregular pentagon,, and the same width from top to bottom. Here I visited a hairdresser, the only one in the town, and was dignified
At Monaghan great numbers of webs of coarse linen cloth, about a yard wide, are sold at from 8d. to 9d. a yard. Although it was now the harvest time, we perceived in the market-place upwards of forty labourers, whose hopes of obtaining employment were disappointed. To an Englishman it is strange to see the men, in the very hottest days of summer, attending market in top-coats and cloaks, a fashion to be accounted for by their having scarcely any other garments. They wear them as "an outside shade."
Seeing footwalks near the town, unprotected against equestrians, I asked the tenant of the toll-house which was close at hand, if people did not escape the toll by going along the path. When he first came they did, he informed me, but he kept fire-arms, and fired at them when attempting
According to Sir Charles Coote, nearly the whole of the county of Monaghan was escheated to the Crown in the reign of James I. under the pretext that the proprietors were disaffected to the King's government. The lands were afterwards given to British and Scotch adventurers, not a twentieth part being reserved to the Irish, who, full of fear and revenge, retreated to the mountains. The small estates are at present held under grants from the Crown. Cromwell's soldiers came in for a considerable share of the forfeited lands, and many of their posterity now enjoy small tracts, yielding about £20 per annum. The county and town derive their name from Hugh Roe M'Mahown, chief of his name, who was executed as a traitor, and whose lands were confiscated.
Important business requiring my speedy return to England, I left Monaghan on the evening of the 5th of September, and departed from Kingston in a steamer for Holyhead, at nine o'clock the next morning. Not being able to obtain a seat in the coach from the latter place, I availed myself of the opportunity which the disappointment afforded, and sallied out to inspect the "lions" of the neighbourhood. What most immediately and most forcibly struck me was the amazing disparity which a sail of not more than five or six hours had produced in the character and appearance of the people; — on that side of the channel, squalid looks, and lamentable destitution, met me at almost every step — on this, the plump and rosy faces of a well-clothed population greeted me wherever I went. In Ireland, three or four shillings a week was a very respectable amount for wages; here, the same class of persons earned regularly from twelve to fourteen. As in a dream, I was transported from a land of poverty and misery, to one flowing with milk and honey. Many of the inhabitants of Holyhead cannot
The Lighthouse stands upon a rock, detached from the main land, but communicating with it by a chain foot-bridge, across a deep chasm of perpendicular rock. The bridge is 110 feet between the pillars, and the distance from high-water to the bridge is 75 feet. The rock consists of clay slate, soft and shining, very much curved, and mixed with veins of quartz. The stairs cut in the rock, in the descent to the bridge, are steep and circuitous. The rugged cliffs are exceedingly dangerous, and small vessels have been lost nearly under the lighthouse, when the light on the summit, as is not unfrequently the case, was enveloped in mist. To remedy this, a short railroad has been constructed, reaching from the base of the lighthouse to the sea, on which a wooden building, or sort of deputy, is ingeniously placed, exhibiting brilliant lights, and is lowered down at discretion by a windlass. This invention has happily been the means of saving several vessels. Many
From Holyhead to Menai Straits there is nothing particularly worthy of note, except, of course, Telford's excellent Dublin and Holyhead road. The celebrated Bridge at Menai is too well known to require description. It is impossible to convey an adequate impression of the greatness of this stupendous work. Its astonishing height, its gigantic strength, its magnificent massiveness, and yet perfect beauty and gracefulness of appearance, address the heart of the spectator in a language that may be felt, but cannot be interpreted. During the progress of this mighty undertaking, the sense of the responsibility which rested upon him is said to have borne so heavily upon the mind of Telford as actually to make him feel that his reason was endangered, and upon these awful occasions, I have been
From Menai Bridge I proceeded to Bangor, and from Bangor to Conway, where the coachman stopped for a few minutes whilst I examined some old houses which I observed up a narrow street. They were genuine Elizabethan, and the exterior proclaimed them to have been of no ordinary rank. I had scarcely time to see more than two or three rooms. The plaster is ornamented with various animals: the royal coat of arms was over the chimney-piece; and the letters E. R. in large characters inclosed within a circle. The rooms were very large, the spacious windows having stone mullions in walls six feet thick. Queen Elizabeth is reported to have held her court occasionally in these ancient buildings, which are now used as alms-houses.
Early in October I returned to Ireland by way of Carlisle, Dumfries, Portpatrick, and Donaghadee. According to tradition, Portpatrick derives its name from being the place from which St. Patrick sailed to Ireland.
At Donaghadee I again set foot on green Juverna. The harbour here was designed by Mr. (now Sir John) Rennie. At the north end of the town are two buildings erected upon a rath, and now used as powder magazines. The sappers and miners having speculated on finding some valuable antiquities in the rath, explored it, and, in consequence of the examination, the buildings gave way, and they lean towards each other at the top in a rather grotesque manner.
We passed through Bangor, a sea-port with a safe and convenient harbour, at which corn and cattle are exported. Viscount Bangor takes his title from this place, and has a seat in the vicinity. There are two cotton mills here, and something like the enterprising spirit of trade was visible.
Belfast Lough is a noble expanse of water, the shores of which are sprinkled for several miles with mansions and villas, surrounded by their respective woods and pleasure grounds, and backed by hills of the whitest limestone. The numerous vessels in the lough bespeak the existence of that which is so rare in Ireland, industry, and activity,
At Antrim I rose at six in the morning (having arrived there the previous evening), and, attended by a guide, set out for the shore of the celebrated Lough Neagh. In passing under the shade of some ancient pines, an apparently unbounded expanse of water burst suddenly upon the view, and on the first glance I inconsiderately asked, "Is that the sea — "The effect produced by the instantaneous prospect of the lake is truly magical, and I find in Arthur Young's description of the lough that his first impression was similar to mine. "It is of such an extent," says he, "that the eye can see no land over it. It appears like a perfect sea, and the shore is broken sand-banks, which look so much like it, that one can hardly believe the water to be fresh." Along the eastern shore of the lough, the Earl of Mazarine's deerpark extends; and from the banks of the same shore some petrifying springs issue. Fossil wood is frequently met with, and in the neighbouring counties it is sold for whetstones. I collected a few specimens in its early stage of petrifaction, as well as small lumps of clay which had become
Retracing our steps, we crossed the Six-mile river in a boat, and traversed the north end of the lough, as far as Shane's Castle, Lord O'Neill's, renowned in the Irish wars. The castle was burned in the year 1816, and nothing now remains but its tall ruins, which are respected for their antiquity. The grounds are very extensive, consisting, I believe, of 50,000 acres.
Respecting Lord O'Neill's, Arthur Young remarks, "I was most agreeably saluted by four men hoeing a field of turnips, as a preparation for grass. These are the first turnip hoes I have seen in Ireland, and I was more pleased than if I had
Near the castle is an ancient burial-ground, in which I did not observe any gravestone of earlier date than 1680, but many were obliterated. In this yard stands the vault belonging to the O'Neill family, with an inscription over the door as follows: "This vault was built by Shane Mac Brien Mac Phelim Mac Shane Mac Brian Mac Phelim O'Neill, Esq., in the year 1722, for a burial place to himself and family of Clanboy." Great numbers of people walk or ride from Antrim and the neighbourhood on Sundays, to enjoy these beautiful grounds.
On walking along the shores of Lough Neagh, I observed that they were strewed with masses of bog which had been washed down the river into the Lough, from the Sluggan Bog in Lord O'Neill's estate, in the neighbourhood of Randal's Town.
One of the pillar towers stands conspicuous about half a mile from Antrim. It is in a perfect state, ninety-five feet high, and fifty-three in circumference. The wall is nearly three feet in
My guide informed me that in a quarry on a mountain, three miles to the east of Antrim, a basalt formation, similar to the Giant's Causeway, is to be seen; probably it may be a link of the chain of rocks of the basaltic kind connecting the Giant's Causeway with those of Market Hill. I also observed on the shores of Lough Neagh, as well as on the road near Belfast, basaltic stones, spotted with trap, similar to those noticed at Market Hill. I saw such, too, on the road near Belfast.
I had now been gratified with a sight of both the south and north end of this immense fresh water lake, said to be one of the largest in Europe. Some of the credulous Irish have a tradition that the Isle of Man was formed of the land scooped out of the space now filled by the lough; and in the time of Giraldus (Moore tells us) it was believed that the lake had been originally a fountain, by whose sudden overflowing the country was inundated, and a whole region, like the Atlantis of Plato, overwhelmed. He says that the fishermen, in clear weather, used to point out to strangers the tall ecclesiastical towers under the water. Moore has made delightful use of this singular tradition in a stanza of one of his melodies.
- On Lough Neagh's bank as the fisherman strays
When the clear, cold eve 's declining,
He sees the round towers of other days,
In the wave beneath him shining;
Thus shall memory often, in dreams sublime,
Catch a glimpse of the days that are over;
Thus, sighing, look through the waves of time
For the long-faded glories they cover!
Mr. Hardy, in the Northern Tourist, states that while some early writers assert that it suddenly
Lough Neagh is stated in old maps to contain 100,000 acres; in one published in 1804, by Sir Charles Coote, in his survey of the county of Armagh, 973,785 acres are mentioned. The shores, generally speaking, are rather flat and bare of wood. It has only two islands, Blackwater Island, and Ram's Island, both situated towards the south end. The latter contains one of the pillar towers. The navigation of Lough Neagh extends from Carlingford Bay, by Warren's Point, Newry, and the Newry Canal, joining the River Ban in the county of Armagh, and thence to the Lough; there is also a navigation
Extreme caution in receiving the information of the Irish drivers is a virtue that all travellers who wish to arrive at the truth must possess. They do not scruple to make the most confident assertions on matters with which they are perfectly unacquainted. I remember that, on first coming in sight of Castle Dawson, and inquiring the nature of the tall building, I was told, without the slightest hesitation, that it was a church. As we drew nearer I expressed my doubts, but was
The streets of Magherafelt are wide and remarkably clean, and the houses well built and white-washed. Contrary to usual custom, the
Moneymore, not far from Magherafelt, is also a neat white-washed town with wide streets, and stands upon a hill. It belongs to the Draper's Company, and has been much improved by them. It contains two Free Schools, a Dispensary, and News-rooms, though the inhabitants do not exceed 1000.
Cookstown, in the county of Tyrone, consists of one straight street upwards of a mile in length, and 150 or 160 feet wide, having a row of trees in front of the houses on each side. The town, when viewed from one end, has the appearance of an avenue of trees alone. Though the population is nearly 3000, the houses are of a humble description. The land about is fertile, and abounds with limestone: coals also have been raised near the town. Cookstown and the vicinity belong to
From this place to Omagh very little cultivation or improvement is observable. Indeed, during the whole of the way I witnessed only one attempt at superior management, and that was in the case of a very respectable looking man, who was working in his small garden, and had a little patch of clover. It is probable that he had seen Mr. Blacker's pamphlet.