Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
John Griscom's letters from Ireland (Author: John Griscom)

p.394

Entry 36

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p.420

[...] 4th. At 8 A. M. the Irish coast was in sight, and we had lost the view of that we had left. At 10 we entered the bay of Belfast, passed the castle and town of Carrickfergus, and approached Belfast about noon. The country on the bay is hilly, and appeared very populous; the fields were remarkably green, and the houses being mostly white, gave to the morning scene a chequered and animating aspect. A large ship rode at anchor in the bay, which, as we neared her, struck my fancy as the most beautiful in form and finish that I had seen in Europe; and I was about to give the highest credit to the Irish as ship-builders, when, on passing near her stern, the word "Philadelphia" undeceived me, and renewed my confidence in the skill and talent of my native land.

The part of the town that lies adjacent to the river, had a neglected and uncomfortable appearance. An excessive crowd was assembled about the wharves to witness the arrival of the steam-boat, which is still


p.421

so great a novelty, as to excite unbounded curiosity. There was certainly in this assemblage a much greater proportion of ragged and miserable objects than I had witnessed any where, except in some of the Italian villages. But the interior of the town agreeably disappointed me. It is almost wholly built of brick, plain, but neat; and the streets, it must be acknowledged, are cleaner than those of New-York. This indeed, is but negative praise; but I think there are not many towns in England preserved in more cleanly order, than are the principal streets and places of Belfast. The population is about 40,000. The houses are mostly four stories high, the first floor being nearly level with the street. The latter are wider than in English towns of equal date. Eight or ten families of Friends reside here, from some of whom, particularly those of T. and J. B***, I have met with much hospitality.