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Narrative of a residence in Ireland during the Summer of 1814, and that of 1815 (Author: Anne Plumptre)

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Last Visit to Saint Valeri. — Adieu to Dublin. — Passage to Liverpool. — Mr. Kean performing there. — Dr. Parr's flattering Admiration of his Talents, and Attentions to him. — Visit to Gloucester. — The Cathedral. — The Coming-up of the Bore. — The new Medicinal Waters. — Organic Remains. — Return to London by Bath.

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On returning to Dublin from my Southern Tour, nothing remained but to take leave of my Irish friends and depart for England. I had promised not to quit the country without once more visiting Saint Valeri; and finding Mr. Walker in Dublin, but about to return into the country the same evening, thither I accompanied him for two nights, and then prepared for my departure. I had once thought of not returning to Dublin from the south, but going from Kilkenny to Waterford, and thence crossing to Milford-Haven. Many circumstances, however, determined me at length to abandon this idea, and abide by the old route of Liverpool. I accordingly embarked on the 27th of September, at five in the afternoon, on board the very Duke of Richmond packet for which I had waited in vain on the other side of the Channel.

The wind was fair and promised a favourable passage, so that we hoped to be in Liverpool within the twenty-four hours. But unfortunately the next morning the wind sunk entirely, and left us in such a dead calm that we made no way at all, and as evening came on great doubts were entertained whether we could get round the Black-Rock (for Liverpool too has her Black-Rock) and into the Mersey before the tide was too far down to admit of our passing the shoal round the rock point. It did just serve, we turned the rock, and anchored within the river; but though in sight of the town, there we were obliged to remain till the return of the tide, before we could get up to it. About five in the morning the anchor was weighed, and about seven we landed. In the night the wind rose so much that the conclusion of the voyage was through a very boisterous sea.

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To my great surprise I found Mr. and Mrs. Kean still in the town, and that Mr. Kean's benefit, the last time of his performance, was to be the same evening. I knew that he had been performing at Liverpool, but thought his time was expired and that he had left it some days. I mention this circumstance because I wish to record the opinion entertained of this accomplished performer's talents, by perhaps one of the first judges of dramatic merit the country can boast, that distinguished scholar Dr. Parr. He happened at this time to be on a visit to Mr. Roscoe at Allerton, and never having seen Mr. Kean, was persuaded to attend his performance of Richard the Second. This was before I came to Liverpool; but having the great pleasure of mingling much with the same society of which he was now the life and ornament, I had the satisfaction of hearing that greater admiration of the performance could hardly have been testified; so much was he pleased, that he even went into the Green-room at the conclusion of the play to compliment Mr. Kean himself and assure him of the great pleasure he had received. Nor did he stop here; when the character was to be repeated for Mr. Kean's benefit he went this second time to see it. I was then in Liverpool; — I was not in the same company with the Doctor at the play, but met him after it was over at Mr. Kean's lodgings whither he had gone once more to express the warmth of his admiration, and to take his leave of him, as Mr. Kean was to leave Liverpool the next day. Afterwards in talking to me upon the subject, he thus emphatically expressed himself: "Madam, there has been a frightful chasm in the theatre from Garrick's time till the present, but now we can once more boast that we have an actor." I was not a little pleased and gratified to find such a confirmation of my own taste.37 After again passing four days most agreeably at Liverpool, I proceeded to Gloucester on a visit to my brother and sister, the former being dean of this

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cathedral. During eight years that he had been so, this was the first occasion when it had been in my power to accept the many kind invitations I had received to be his guest at the deanery. I had often heard Gloucester cathedral mentioned as among the finest of our Gothic churches, and so indeed it is for the greater part. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the tower, of the east window, of the Lady Chapel at the east end of the cathedral, of the cloisters, and of almost all the south side of the church: the only thing to be observed in the reverse of the picture is, the great difference between the north and south sides, they hardly appear as if belonging to the same building. For the rest, it is truly a noble structure. There is a very good library belonging to the Chapter. I was fortunate in being here just at the full moon and the spring-tides, so that I saw one of the great curiosities of the place in very high perfection. This is what is called the coming-up of the Bore38, that is, the rush of the tide up the river. The effect is very extraordinary, nor did I ever see the same in any other tide river. The water does not rise gradually, as in most cases, but an immense body rushes forwards, so that in a few minutes the river rises several feet; and it seems to come with a force that would even bear down a mountain if one stood in its way.

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I also went and examined some new medicinal waters only lately discovered, of a similar quality to the Cheltenham waters. Several springs have been opened; and a very nice bath-house is built, where are hot and cold baths, or where any one may drink the water. Plantations and walks are making all about; and when the shrubs and trees are grown up, it will be an extremely pretty spot. Small ammonites have been dug up very much in turning the ground to search for springs; and I saw at the deanery many organic remains, which had come from the neighbourhood of Gloucester; but I had not time to go and explore the hills where they are principally found. The stone of the country is a pure shelly limestone. From this place I went to Bath, to visit another sister; and thence returned to London after a very pleasant excursion.