On the 22d of August I set off early in the morning from Bushmills to proceed on my route. The ruins of Dunluce-Castle are well known as a striking object in these parts: they lie about four miles west of the Giants' Causeway. A part stands on a rock, separated from the coast by a chasm eighty feet wide, much like Carrick-a-Rede: this is supposed to have been the whole of the original structure. The rock on which it stands is an entire mass of basalt, rising 150 feet above the sea; within it is a large cave. The only access to the rock is by a narrow piece of wall over the chasm, just wide enough for a footway, and without any guard on either side. This is generally said to be one wall of a bridge: but some are of opinion that there never was any regular bridge that this is one of two parallel walls which crossed the chasm, serving as supports to boards occasionally thrown over, when any communication with the coast was wanted. The castle is supposed to have been built by MacQuillan, a powerful chieftain, from whose family it came by marriage into that of the Macdonnells, the ancestors of the Antrim family. It has long ceased to be the habitation of any other being than Mave Roe, a Bansheigh, very likely a descendant of some of the Finnian heroes, who built the Causeway. She is a neat little personage, for she sweeps the room she inhabits clean every day. After the murder of the Duke of Buckingham by Felton, his duchess, marrying the Marquis of Antrim, came to live at Dunluce, then the family mansion: but a part of the castle falling in a violent storm, she was so alarmed that she quitted it immediately, vowing never to enter it again: a suite of apartments was accordingly built for
I had originally intended visiting Portrush, and had a letter of introduction to Dr. Richardson, a name well known for his ardent researches into the geology of the country, though thought by most persons of science somewhat wild and fantastic in his theories. But having learnt that he was not in the country, as I could not see the owner of the place I did not go to the place itself. In an old quarry to the left, close by the road-side, about half-way between Bushmills and Coleraine, is a row of basaltic pillars as perfectly characterized as any in these parts. This spot is called Craigahuller, or Craig-in-Ullar, I know not which, for I have seen it spelt and heard it called both ways. Excepting Dunluce-Castle and this colonnade, nothing can be more uninteresting than the drive from Bushmills to Coleraine.
Neither is there much to attract attention in the town of Coleraine itself. The river Bann runs through it; and about a mile from the town is a salmon-leap, but I did not go thither. Salmon indeed abounds all along the northern coast of Ireland, and the best I ever tasted. From Ballycastle hither it was always the first thing proposed, when the question of dinner was brought upon the tapis. As a specimen of the amazing prolific nature of fish, it may be mentioned, that a naturalist had the curiosity once to examine the roe of a salmon caught in the river Bush, and found it to contain eleven thousand eggs. The salmon-leap near Coleraine is the property of Sir George Hill, who lets it at the rent of 1000l. a-year.
From hence I went to Down-hill, the seat of Sir Hervey Bruce. The house, as I have already noticed, was built by the late Bishop of Derry and Earl of Bristol.
Returning to Coleraine, I proceeded from thence to Ballymoney, which was to be my night-quarters. Here I found that I had fallen unluckily upon the time of the races; and at first there seemed some reason to apprehend a repetition of the night-adventures at Cushendall: however, the landlady of the inn (the Antrim Arms) was extremely civil, and exerting herself to make room for me, an arrangement was at length made, by which I was to have a bed-chamber. As the landlady thought I might be lonely, and want some amusement, she came and announced that there were players in town, for the races, if I would like to go to the theatre, and presented me with a bill of the performances for the evening. As this was the only opportunity which had fallen in my way of seeing an Irish itinerant company, I should most probably have gone, had I not been very much fatigued from a succession of days of pretty considerable exertion. I beg, however, to present my readers
On Tuesday Night,
By particular Desire and under the Patronage of the Stewards of the Races.
Theatre Ballymoney.
BY PERMISSION.
This present Tuesday Evening Augt. 23,
will be Presented the admired
and celebrated Play of
Inkle and Yarico.
Or Love in a Forest. Inkle Mr. Loftus Monro, — Medium Mr. Davison,
Sir Christopher Curry Mr. Heney,
Planter, Mr. Bennett, — Trudge Mr. Heney, Junr.
Yarico Mrs. L. Monro, Wowski Mrs. Heney Junr.
Between the Play and Farce the following
ENTERTAINMENTS,
A Comic Song By Mr. Heney, Junr.
Paddy Whack by Mr. Monro.
A New Ballet Dance called the
Village Ghost,
Or all For
Ballymoney Races.
Old Snap (a Cobler, with a Comic Dance) — Mr. Loftus Monro,
Ben Block, (with an Hornpipe in Character of a Sailor) — Mr. Heney, Junr.
Tom Clueline — Mr. Davison,
Fanny — Mrs. Loftus Monro,
Jenny — Mrs. Heney, Junr.
To Conclude with the celebrated Farce of
Love's Masquarade,
Or the Intrigueing Baron.
Fredrick Baron Willinghurst — Mr. L. Monro!
Mr. Friz (a Hair Dresser) — Mr. L. Monro!!
Hannibal Whiskirisky (an old Invalid,) Mr. L. Monro!!!
Barn'by Almutz (an old Trooper) — Mr. L. Monro!!!!
Mrs. Almutz an old Housekeeper) — Mr. L. Monro!!!!!
Baron Piffleberg — — Mr. Heney.
Hair Dresser — — Mr. Bennett.
Hans Mockus (an old Invalid) — Mr. Heney, Junr.
Lady Brumback — — Mrs. Heney, Junr.
Sophia Miss Bennett — Maria — Mrs. L. Monro.
BOXES, 2s. 6d. PIT, 1s. 8d. GALLERY, l0d.
Doors open at 7, begin Precisely at 8 o'Clock — No
admittance on any pretence whatever behind the scenes. —
— A PLAY EVERY EVENING DURING THE RACES —
Henry Loftus Monro, respectfully hopes during his short stay,
by a strict attention to the Comfort and Amusement of the Ladies
and Gentlemen of the Town and it Vicinity, to merit their support.
WEDNESDAY EVENING, THE POINT OF HONOR
AND THE WAGS OF WINDSOR.
Note: Tickets may be had and Places taken of Mr. Monro, at
the Antrim Arms.
I think some hints might even be taken by the cooks of English play-bills from their sister-country: the gradation in the number of points of admiration at the astonishing versatility of Mr. L. Monro's genius appears to me a perfectly novel idea, and one capable of being improved upon exceedingly. For example, in recording the enthusiastic shouts of applause with which a new piece, or a new performer, is always received, and which increases every night of the actor's performing, or of the play being performed, a regular daily increase of admiration-points at the conclusion of the record would, in giving a more elevated idea of the merits celebrated, at the same time have novelty to recommend it; — no trifling consideration in the satiety which begins rather to attend upon reading over a mere ringing of changes upon repeated reiterated shouts of applause, enthusiastic admiration, unbounded raptures, &c. &c. — For the rest there is nothing particular to notice in Ballymoney or the country about it.
In the course of my conversation with the Scotchman at Cushendall, he asked whither it was my intention to direct my course after the Giants' Causeway? I said that I proposed returning to Belfast by Coleraine and Antrim. He then earnestly recommended my visiting a Moravian village in my route which I might do without lengthening the way, only by taking a road somewhat more in the interior of the country than the high-road from Coleraine to Antrim. My intended day's journey therefore on quitting Ballymoney was to visit this village, and go on to Antrim for the night. When we were about three miles from Ballymoney, I perceived on a sudden the wheel of the car on the side which I sat going rather oddly, and I was about to bid the driver stop and to desire the servant to get down and examine it, when before I could speak I found myself upon my knees in the road, the wheel flying off behind the carriage, and the driver thrown to some distance the other way, while the horse stopped in a moment, shaking and appearing wholly terrified: the cause of all was, that the linch-pin of the wheel had broke. Happily no one was hurt; my own fall was so very light that I was not even frightened: there was indeed in the manner of it something so approaching to the ludicrous, that I should have been disposed to laugh, had I not been alarmed for the driver, whose fall was of a much more serious nature; but he was a youth light and active, and fortunately received no injury. The great difficulty was, how we were to proceed. We saw, however, two or three cabins by the road side at the distance of not more than a quarter of a mile, and from one of them a large strong nail was procured as a substitute for the broken linch-pin; the people also told us that about two miles further on the road we should come to a smith's forge, where we could get a new one made.
Thither we accordingly proceeded; but it was then discovered that some other part of the iron work was in a state so worn as to be in danger of breaking at every moment, and my servant said he thought it so unsafe that it was better to have the whole repaired, which the smith assured us he could do in two hours or two hours and a half. Nothing then remained, as a heavy shower at this moment came on, but to take refuge in a small public-house close by, and there wait till the son of Vulcan had concluded his operations, or till the rain would allow me to walk about and see whether any thing interesting or amusing was furnished by the spot. I sat myself down in the kitchen of the public-house,
Indeed it was raining very hard; and had it not been so, I should scarcely
have ventured to take the walk, not feeling any confidence as to the distance
which he stated it to be. From experience I well knew that no dependence
was to be placed upon these reputed distances, that the two or three miles might
very likely be five or six. Sometimes in inquiring the distance of a place, the
answer would be — so many miles and a wee-bit, but I always found the wee-bit
was as much as all the rest. I therefore contented myself with hearing all my
host had to say upon these great bones, which seemed to occupy his mind very
much. When he had descanted upon them sufficiently, he mentioned two or
three other places and things which he assured me were quite worth seeing;
and at length said, "But there's one place, madam, which above all others you
should see, for that is a curious place indeed."
"And where is that?"
"Tis Kilcock, madam."
"What is there so very curious in it?"
"Why now, madam, perhaps you won't believe me, but I can assure you 'tis
This legend he related with the utmost seriousness, and seemed to be impressed with the most perfect conviction both of the effect and its cause. I found in more instances than this that St. Columbkill was a saint in great repute in the country, second only to St. Patrick. His name, properly Columba, has been converted into Columbkill from the island in which he was buried, one of the Hebrides. In consequence of his remains being deposited there, it was called I-Columb-Kill, that is the burying place of Columba; till in process of time the meaning of the addition kill (burying-place) being lost, the whole was considered as the name of the saint.
The job of two hours or two hours and a half lasted four; but for this I was well prepared, so was not much disconcerted by it. The whole delay, however, occasioned by the accident was such that to get to Antrim that night became
The worst part of the story was, that either a wrong direction was given us at the inn as to the road we were to take to Randall's-Town, or we misunderstood it; for we got into a most deplorable road indeed, far worse than any I had yet seen, unless that in going to Knock-Laid. At length, however, Randall's-Town was reached in safety; and having breakfasted there, I proceeded to Shanes-Castle, the seat of Lord O'Neale, on the borders of Lough Neagh. This lake is said to be in extent the third in Europe: but the accounts of its size vary exceedingly; by some it is called twenty miles long and fifteen broad, by others fifteen in length and twelve in breadth. The shores are every where flat, presenting no beauty to the eye; and as the distance from one shore to the other is too great for the eye to reach, considering the flatness of the shores, nothing is presented but a vast expanse of water. Petrified wood is occasionally found about the lake, but in very small quantities, and naturalists are extremely divided in their opinions whether this effect is produced by the waters of the lake or by peculiar properties in the soil round about. On the shore I found pebbles of several varieties of basalt, of common quartz, of chalcedony some of them having an opaline tendency, with some few agates; all these were evidently produced from masses of amygdaloid or basalt. There were besides flint pebbles of various colours.
Lord O'Neale's family claims to be one of the oldest in Ireland, they trace their descent from the ancient kings of Ireland. A pedigree had just been made out from the Heralds' Office by Sir William Betham Ulster King at Arms, very finely written on vellum, beautifully illuminated and most splendidly bound, doing all together infinite credit to the several persons concerned in the execution of it. Great alterations were going forward at this time in the house: a fine conservatory was built, to which a grand eating-room was to be joined, the windows commanding an extensive view over the lake. There was a very fine collection of old china arranged in a closet with great taste, which had glass doors opening to the breakfast-room; also some good pictures. By order of the owner, a great deal of venerable old furniture, which had been thrown aside for the more light and frippery decorations of modern days, was now replaced. Alas! since
From hence we proceeded to Antrim, which is not more than two miles from Shanes-Castle; and after visiting the Round-Tower about half a mile from the town, arrived in the evening at Belfast. In crossing the mountains between Antrim and Belfast we were enveloped for half an hour in the thickest fog I ever saw; the so much celebrated fogs of London might well hide their diminished heads before it. Happily it cleared away in time to allow of our seeing the fine view presented from these heights over the town and Bay of Belfast and the fertile valley of the Lagan. Seldom have I passed ten days of higher gratification than those in which I made this circuit; I had only to regret that I could not devote more time to it. If any one should think that I have suffered the delight I felt to betray me into being too diffuse in the above relation, and should wish for a more concise account of the same tour, I beg leave to refer him to Sir John Carr's work. Though conciseness is not in general the distinguishing characteristic of his writings, in this instance he seems to have been studious to dismiss his narrative in the fewest words possible. "After a very interesting tour," he says, " in the north, in which I visited Lough Neagh, the marvellous pillars of the Giants' Causeway, the basaltic shores of the county of Antrim, Belfast, and the principal towns in that flourishing part of the country, I returned to Dublin, and prepared to quit a country which delighted and astonished me, &c. &c." — I really do not think it could have been possible for any writer to have expended less time, less thought, and less paper, in going over so many miles of ground.