In the neighbourhood of Dublin, as of most large towns, there are a number of places exceedingly frequented by the citizens on parties of pleasure, particularly on Sundays; and which strangers, if they have any ambition to be classed among curious or inquisitive travellers, must not fail to visit. Among these Black-rock holds a high rank. This is a village on the southern shore of the Bay, about three miles from the east end of the city. But those who from the name would expect to see a sublime rock majestically beetling o'er its base upon the sea, would be cruelly disappointed. As at Bognor-rocks, and other places which might be mentioned on the English coast, these rocks are nothing but a few large blocks of stone in the sea, overgrown with weeds, covered at high water, though laid open at the ebb of the tide. Nor is there anything so attractive either in the place itself, or the drive to it, as to account for the predilection with which it is regarded by almost all the inhabitants of Dublin. By the inhabitants I must be understood to mean the good citizens — the tradespeople, mechanics, and others; for Black-rock is not the resort of the quality. During the summer, on a Sunday, the village and the road to it are thronged with people, as if it were a fair. Of course there are abundance of public-houses, where dinner, tea, and above all the beloved whiskey, are flying about in all directions. Such is the passion of the Dublinites for Sunday parties hither, that a woman whose circumstances were indifferent, was once holding forth to a lady, her benefactress, upon the sacrifices she made to support her
In this quarter are several very pretty seats of noblemen and gentlemen; one of which is inhabited, or was so within the last two years, by that venerable patriot Sir Edward Newenham, a name well known and honourably distinguished in the public annals of his country; if still living, it is at a very advanced age. Among the many pleasures which I owe to my travels in different countries, it has not been one of the least, that to them I am indebted for the acquaintance of two daughters of this gentleman's, living however very remote from each other, Madame Folsch of Marseilles, and Mrs. Hughes of Hollywood, near Belfast. The former I have had occasion to mention with grateful recollections in my Travels in France; to the latter I shall have occasion to advert when I speak of the very pleasant time I passed at Belfast.
A much prettier spot than Black-rock is Sea-point, about half a mile further along the Bay, and commanding a beautiful view over it. Here people go in the summer to bathe: there is a handsome lodging-house, and hotel where sometimes balls are given. Both at this place and Black-rock there are a number of bathing-machines, as they are called; that is, the little sentry-boxes already noticed. At the end of Bagot-street in Dublin, from whence goes off the road to Black-rock, is a very large stand of jaunting-cars and jingles, which carry people at fixed prices to certain places in the neighbourhood. To Black-rock the fare is sixpence-halfpenny each person, that is, an English sixpence; on a fine Sunday they are all kept in full employ. These cars and jingles also run to the Pigeon-house, I believe at the same price. Dunleary and Dalkey, — the former a mile beyond Black-rock, the latter three miles further, — are much prettier villages; but being at a greater distance, are not so much frequented.
The western side of the city also furnishes a succession of places coming somewhat under the same description, but not of such general resort. Beyond Chapel-Isod, which is two miles and a half from the Castle, on the banks of the Liffey, for a considerable way is a succession of strawberry-gardens, whither, in the season, parties are made to go and eat strawberries and cream. Mr. Hamilton Rowan was so obliging as to carry me one day, accompanied by Sir Charles and Lady Morgan, a delightful drive in his car along this road. We
Above the road for some way beyond Chapel-Isod are very high slopes covered with strawberry- plants, which furnish the regales I have mentioned; while at the foot of the road runs the river. Quitting these strawberry-banks, the road, quite on to the village of Lucan, runs through a delightful dell with only the river and road in the bottom, and high wooded slopes on each side; or at intervals the dell somewhat expanding allows space for a small portion of meadow between the wood and the water. This is called the low road to Lucan: the high or turnpike road runs along a height on the different side of the river: it is the great north-west road through the counties of Kildare, Meath, Longford, &c. to Sligo. In many parts of this dell the river is so shallow that a person might walk through it and the water would scarcely be over his ancles; its course is besides very much broken by large masses of stone. At Lucan, in the grounds of Mr. Vesey, there is a medicinal spring resembling the springs at Harrowgate, and many people take lodgings here during the summer for the sake of drinking the waters. A spacious hotel has within a few years been built for the reception of company, and there are several lodging-houses scattered about;, yet there is nothing very pretty in the spot, except the grounds of Mr. Vesey; they run along the bank of the river, and are well wooded.
Leixlip is a mile beyond Lucan. Here the Liffey is joined by another small river called the Rye; and they form together a spreading expanse of water, though still very shallow. About a mile from this place the Royal Canal
The village of Leixlip is prettily and picturesquely scattered about at the edge of the basin formed by the confluence of the two rivers. The Liffey about a quarter of a mile from hence enters a charming wild romantic dell, where high slopes covered with wood rise on each side directly above the water. In the midst of this dell the water falls over some rocks, forming a very beautiful though not very high cascade. The scene is altogether of a wild and romantic nature, unlike any thing one expects to see so near a large capital. Several paths are made through the wooded heights, by which the cascade is reached, — an access altogether suited to the wildness and solitude of the whole scene. The rush of water is abundant; though the fall is not high; and the effect is equally fine whether viewed from the edge of the water below or from a small temple above. A broken fragment of a bridge on one side of the fall adds much to the picturesque effect of the whole. This is called a Salmon-leap; but I rather think that those who would expect to see here that singular operation of nature would be entirely disappointed. About the rocks was a profusion of the large St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum) now in full flower; it was the first time I had ever seen that beautiful plant growing wild. We returned home by the high road, highly gratified with our excursion, the latter part of which was as new to Sir Charles and Lady Morgan as to myself; — so true is it that it is by means
Another very pleasant day during my stay in Dublin was spent in a party to Howth, my companions being Mr. and Mrs. C ... and a very intelligent young Prussian with whom we had become acquainted. The road runs for a long way at the edge of the North Bull, and about a mile from the town passes by Marino, a delightful seat of the Earl of Charlemont. In the grounds, and visible from the road, is a beautiful little temple called the Casino, built from a design by Sir William Chambers, after an Italian model. At Raheny, a village about half way, two roads divide off, the one going through the country, the other by the strand. This latter is the most interesting, as it passes through the village of Clontarf, rendered for ever memorable in the annals of Ireland by the battle fought here in the year 1014, between the Irish under their celebrated monarch and patriotic leader Brian Boroimhe, or Boru, and their Danish oppressors; in which, though the Irish monarch and his son both fell victims, a blow never recovered was given to the Danish power. It is not adviseable, however, to take this road at the flow of the tide, since it is at the very edge of the water, and in some places scarcely wide enough for two carriages to pass; at low water there is an ample space of sand, enough for a legion of carriages to go abreast.
The Hill of Howth has been already mentioned as the northern point forming the entrance of the Bay. It is a remarkable peninsula, the perfect rock of Gibraltar in miniature, joined to the main land by an isthmus not more than a quarter of a mile over. It was anciently called Ben-hader, that is The bird's promontory. Tradition says that here once stood an edifice called Dun Criomthan, the palace of Criomthan, who was chief or king of the district, whence in the days of the Roman Agricola he made several successful descents on the coast of Britain. Though now nearly stripped of trees, the hill is said to have been formerly covered with venerable oaks, and to have been a great theatre of Druidical superstition. The only trees remaining are in the demesne of Lord Howth, on the western side of the hill. The Howth family is a very ancient
The village of Howth does not stand on that side of the promontory towards Dublin Bay, but on the opposite side of the hill facing the north. An immense work has been here undertaken, which had been at this time carried on for eight years, and to all appearance it was likely to continue eight years longer before it would be completed. This was to form an artificial harbour, by means of a mole or pier of stone-work. The stone principally used is from vast quarries made for the purpose in the rock itself; but a great deal has also been brought from Bullock on the other side of the Bay, and some even from the quarries at Runcorn, near Liverpool. The idea in making this harbour, — the ostensible one at least, — was to obviate the inconvenience experienced by vessels, particularly the packets from England, in being so frequently obliged to wait for a long time in the Bay till the tide will serve to go over the bar. Here, the projectors said, there would at all times be a sufficient depth of water to receive them, with effectual shelter from all winds. Some of the men, however, who were at work upon the pier looked wise, shook their heads, and shrugged their shoulders with a significant sneer when we talked with them upon the subject; and the tide being low pointed significantly to the rocky bottom, between which and the surface the space certainly did not appear very considerable: "Oh, by
Thus much is certain, that it has not been found an easy task to make the works of sufficient strength to resist the waves, which come with prodigious force round the head of the promontory; and 'tis thought that, even if the depth of water within the mole be found to answer, great risk must often be incurred by vessels in attempting to make the harbour. All agree that with a quarter of the expense a much more safe and commodious harbour might have been made on the south side of the Bay between Dalkey Island and the main land, where there is never less than eight fathom of water, and where vessels might always enter with safety and lie in perfect security.
Another scheme has been projected, which some are of opinion would render nugatory all other plans, by removing the impediment that now obstructs the entrance to Dublin harbour, and rendering that accessible at all times. This is to insulate the Hill of Howth, by cutting abroad and deep channel across the isthmus, when, as is affirmed, a current would be created of such force as to carry away the sands by which Dublin Bay is so much choked. Many, however, are of opinion, that this channel might be cut; but in carrying away the sands from the Bay, the probability is they would rest by the way, and the channel in a very short time be entirely filled up again. In fine, the only plan
The stone of this hill is a hard limestone very much veined with quartz, and exceedingly impregnated with ferruginous matter, furnishing many crystallizations: some of the siliceous ones are of an acicular figure, small, and exquisitely transparent; they are called here (as I perceived siliceous crystallizations were called wherever found) Irish diamonds. The workmen preserve them carefully, and have always some to sell to the curious in such matters, for which they take care not to ask a price below their value. The quarries are pretty high up the hill, and the stone is brought down by the same kind of machinery as has been noticed at the Hampton quarries near Bath. The rocks are blown up with gunpowder, as the readiest means of separating the masses. One of these explosions took place while we were there; — the sound is grand, but it is not very safe to be near the spot where the explosion takes place; we were careful to keep at a proper distance. Below the quarries is a curious piece of rock insulated at high water, though when the tide is down the narrow channel by which it is separated is laid dry. The lowermost part of this rock appears to be schistose; it is of a deep red colour resulting from the presence of iron, while the uppermost part, of a bluish-gray colour, has much the character of gray wacke slate.
On the highest point of the promontory is a light-house, from which there is as noble a sea-view as can be imagined. This is now no longer used; the rocks shelve off very much below it, and it has been found more eligible to build a new light-house upon a shelf more than half way down. Though not seen to so great a distance as the former, this is conspicuous as far as it is wanted, and is a safer and surer guide. In the village of Howth are the ruins of an abbey, but not affording any interest.
Opposite to Howth are two small islands, Ireland's Eye and Lambay. The former is only three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and is supposed to have been rent from it by the force of the currents, yet here is the very spot chosen for constructing the mole. Are the works of man likely to resist the mighty power of the waters, when the works of the Creator did not? — This little island produces many odoriferous and medicinal herbs. On the east side is a perpendicular mass of rock called The Stags, considered as very dangerous to shipping; — an additional recommendation of the spot chosen for the new harbour, since ships making it must pass almost close to this rock.
Lambay, three leagues to the north of Howth, is a much larger island, the resort of a vast number of sea-fowl, and producing abundance of rabbits. It is the property of a Mrs. Usher, a descendant of Archbishop Usher. This family came over to Ireland under the reign of King John, when they obtained a grant of the island of Lambay, which they have retained ever since. At a time when the plague raged in Dublin, Archbishop Usher retired hither with his family; and afterwards in leasing out the island, a clause was inserted in the lease, that if the city should be again visited by the plague, the lease was to be void; so that in case of such a calamity the family have always a safe retreat. There are now upon it the remains of a curious old building, supposed to have been erected at that time as a dwelling-house and fortress. One part is inhabited by some servants of the tenant who hires the property of Mrs. Usher, and they are the only human inhabitants of the island. The form of this building was a polygon, and it has no timber, but is built entirely on arches. There is a well on the island dedicated to the Holy Trinity, which is very much visited on Trinity Sunday. Great quantities of kelp are made here, and plenty of oysters, crabs, and lobsters, are caught.
A bay sweeps from the north side of Howth promontory round for a considerable extent of coast, called Malahide Bay from the town and castle of Malahide standing upon it. This latter, the seat of Mr. Talbot, is situated on a rocky eminence, a sort of peninsula, commanding a fine view of the town and bay. It is a large irregular building round a court, but is thought an object well worth the attention of a traveller, particularly from its bold and commanding situation; as such I always talked of seeing it, but it was one of the few objects which I talked of and did not accomplish. On the beach here, and at Port Marnock near it, abundance of shells are found. The road to Malahide passes through a village called Saint Doulach's, about four miles from Dublin, where is a curious old church, one of the very few remaining in Ireland built between the eighth and eleventh centuries, in a style of architecture to which there is nothing similar in Great Britain, or any of the western parts of Europe. The idea is supposed to have been taken from the Greek and Roman temples, since there is a manifest attempt at columns and pilasters of the ancient Doric order, which support a stone roof. A second stone roof finishes the building, between which and the first there is a considerable space. This style appears to have been a sort of intermediary one between
While several of my evenings were passed delightfully in witnessing the extraordinary talents of Mr. Kean, some others were passed very pleasantly in drives to different parts with Mrs. Kean, sometimes in the Phoenix-park, or round the Circular Road, or through some of the pretty villages which abound near Dublin. The Circular-road has its name from nearly encompassing the town. To go from the eastern part, where we were, to the Phoenix-park, which is at the western extremity, this road, though very circuitous, is generally taken to avoid going through some of the worst parts of the city. In pursuing it the Grand Canal is twice crossed. This great work, great both from its magnitude and from the important public object it embraces, affords an inland navigation directly across the island, from Dublin on the eastern coast to the Shannon which pursues its course to the western. The work was begun in 1756; so that it claims a priority over the canal system in England, which has been so much more the subject of public notice, and the theme of public admiration. I beg not to be understood here to mean any reflection upon the canal system; I think it one of great public utility, and claiming the utmost public eulogium: I mean only to observe, what I believe is not generally understood, that Ireland took the lead of Great Britain in it. In the neighbourhood of Dublin trees are planted on each side the canal, with a gravel walk between them and the water: where the trees are well grown up, this makes a very pleasant promenade. Passage-boats for conveying passengers and goods are constantly passing and repassing, and those who have no occasion to travel rapidly speak well of them as a mode of conveyance; but they take two days to go from Dublin to Shannon harbour upon the Shannon, where the canal terminates, a distance of only sixty-three miles. There is an excellent hotel now established at Portobello in Dublin, where the canal boats stop, which is found a great convenience to passengers coming by them.
The Phoenix-park is extensive, but there is nothing strikingly pretty in it. Here the Lord-lieutenant has a summer residence. Near the centre is a Corinthian column with a phoenix rising from the flames on the top. This was erected in 1747 by Lord Chesterfield, who was then Lord-lieutenant.