Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
Mary Ann Grant's letters from Ireland (Author: Mary Ann Grant)

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Entry 46

TO MISS T—


Tuam,

December 1804.

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[...] A fair breeze, at the end of two days, sprung up, and we again set sail, it proved propititious, and wafted us safe to the irish shore. The Bay of Dublin presented a grand and noble object; evening was fast approaching as we entered it; the sun's last beauteous beams played on the distant hills, and seemed dispersing the thick mist in which their grey heads were enveloped: ocean's proud waves chasing each other, raised their white surge against the craggy rocks; amid them rose conspicuous the Hill of Hoath, and the romantic rock of Ireland's eye; offering altogether a beauteous scene; while a distant view of the Wicklow Mountains, shrouded in the dusky shades of twilight, added majesty to the whole; in the foreground, the light-house presented its alabaster front, and, like the guardian of the mariner, was then offering


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its brilliant light for his protection, in a situation well known for its danger. We passed the bar about seven o'clock, and were soon after safely landed on the quay, and conducted to an hotel in Kildare Street; here we remained about a week, and were annoyed with almost incessant rain; as I, however, am of the class of curious travellers, I embraced every moment that the sun brightened, to obtain a view of the fine buildings in this great city; if you wish to form an idea of it, you may fix your thoughts on London; for the same crowded streets, bustling shops, and large and small houses are promiscuously blended together; though I think the public edifices are, in general, far more elegant, and placed to more advantage; among them the Parliament House is one of the most cospicuous for magnificence; it is now converted into a national bank, the colonnade that forms the front is surpassingly beautiful. The University is erected in

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the finest taste. The Royal Exchange is of Portland stone, and decorated with a bronze statue of his present Majesty. The Custom-House is superb; and I was quite charmed with the grandeur of Stephen's Green; this noble square forms the fashionable promenade of Dublin. The want of regularity in its buildings cannot, however, fail to offend the eye, and the deep ditch by which the Green is surrounded, forms a very unwholesome puddle, and is perfectly disgusting; it is a pity a square so elegant should be thus disfigured. The magnificence of the Duke of Leinster's Palace, in Merrion Square, is particularly striking, and the beautiful disposition of the grounds around it claims admiration.

The environs of Dublin are exceedingly picturesque, I am informed; and I lamented that continual wet weather, during my short stay, prevented me from making any excursions. The regiment


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received a route for Tuam; a distance of rather more than a hundred English miles. With the first part of our journey, I was really enchanted; we pursued the windings of the river Liffy, the banks of which are highly adorned with rich groups of trees; and a fertile soil, well cultivated, varied by the rising hill or sinking vale, and rendered altogether delightfully romantic by the small verdured islands and gentle falls, by which the river is ornamented. At Lexlip we parted from the Liffy, and, in losing it, seemed to bid adieu to fine scenery; the remainder of our journey was little more than a dreary waste; and here we have only been two days, so that I can hardly say how I shall like it; the country seems bleak and cheerless, but the inhabitants are, I am told, remarkable for their hospitality to strangers. I am far from well, my health has never recovered the shock it received at Weeley, and I am often

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inclined to indulge gloomy ideas; however, as I feel it right to struggle against them, I endeavor to do so.

Farewell.