We rose on the 21st intending to spend the day on the lake. We had engaged a boat in the evening but in the morning we were told we could not have one. Thus disappointed we ordered our breakfast at the Inn intending to walk to Mucruss. Just as we had finished a boat was offered to us but when we had agreed to take it, the men were [p. 44] dissatisfied with the quantity of beer provided and would not go. We again determined on a walk but this indifference immediately made the quantity of beer sufficient. This is a common case at Killarney. The men have a monopoly but are restricted from making an open advantage of it & they consequently will cheat if they can or extort a present — and the whole system is attended with so much inconvenience, that tho doubtless intended for the accommodation of travellers no traveller can visit Killarney without wishing Lord Kenmare at the devil for his pains. If everyone were at liberty to let out his boat & the pay both for the boat & for the men published the traveller would be less open to imposition. The power which can prohibit all boats from being let would surely be able to effect this — but I do not know [p. 45] whether it would have any ill effects on the fishery of the lake by increasing the number of boats, which it certainly would do.
The walk to Ross Castle77 where we take boat is not unpleasant but it is a great deal too long to be enjoyed as a daily walk. We rowed down Ross Bay and passed between the Island of Ross & Innisfallen (pronounced Innizvalen) to the open part of the lake. The longwoods of Mucruss stretching at the foot of the Turk are very beautiful. Glenaa78 was covered merely with copse woods except near the place where we leave the lower lake where a small portion of its old magnificence remained but these were destined to fall before the following May79. Lord Kenmare granted a lease of the woods for 13 years which expires at that time. The Eagles Nest is a noble object, [p. 46] The lower part is finely
The water was low and we were obliged to leave our boat to be pushed up the rapids at Old Weir Bridge & at another shallow place above it. We were amused with the echos at the Eagles Nest; our performer was a most miserable one, and either himself or his instrument, I know not which but I believe both, was unable to master the tune of God Save the King. Dillwyn, who piques himself on his loyalty, insisted upon it but it was in vain to insist on impossibilities. However, he gave us the opportunity of hearing the echos here and in several other places & they are certainly amazingly fine — the whole [p. 47] range of mountains answering like a stretched string when the correspondent note is struck. The effect of the cannon is loud and distinct but far inferior to the beautiful swells and falls of the equally celebrated echo of Lodore80 — which again would not have strength to return the finer notes of music.
[p. 50] We ate the Dinner we had brought with us at the cottage on Ronans island81. Our Boatman caught some small trout as we ascended the lake but we left them [the] fish to satisfy their appetite as it was Friday & as Roman Catholics [they] would not touch meat.