Sunday July 16th
It is commonly supposed that there are no Bugs in this Kingdom, & that they were all turned out by St. Patrick. If, however, they ever were banished they have returned with a vengeance for in my Life I never was so plagued by them as I have been at Cork, at Cloghnikilty & at this place. I was also teazed by a large number of the Insects usually called Death watches {MS page 30} & which arranged about my bed beat their monotonous noise all night. In the morning I found them on the walls of my Chamber by Dozens & ascertained that they belong to the Genus Dermestes but neither Mr. Leach or myself knew the Species.60
After Breakfast our Landlord was our guide to see a Spa & a Lake which he told us are always visited by Travellers.61 They are both within 1/2 a Mile from the Inn. The former is a small Stream of strong chalybeate water which issues from a Rock, but neither that nor the Lake are worth going an inch to see. If Service had been performed at an early hour in any place of worship that appeared at all decent, it was my intention to have attended but [I] found it impracticable without detaining my Companions longer at Dunmanway than they would have liked. It is a better tho' not so large a Town as Cloghnikilty. At 10 we set out for Bantry which by the new Road is about 12 Irish Miles distant; & for the sake of botanizing we {MS page 31} walked a great part of the way. In a deep Valley we passed the Ruins of a large Castle62 & as we approached Bantry the Country became more & more mountainous & the Scenery more bold & interesting. From the Summit of a high Hill we enjoyed a grand & impressive view of Bantry Bay which is surrounded by wild Mountains many of whose frowning Summits were buried in the Clouds.63.{MS page 32} Several different species of Tabani64 flew about in such immense numbers over the Bogs that tho' we killed them by Scores it was impossible to prevent them from settling on & stinging our hands & Faces. We reached Bantry about 1/2 past 3 & I went immediately to the Post Office [at] which I was much gratified by receiving a letter from my dear Mary.
Soon after our arrival, in the neighbourhood of the Inn to my no small surprize
- a Yell began,
Redoubled then from House to House it ran.65
As soon as I reached the Door I found that a Funeral had just entered the Town & that the Noise I heard was an Irish howl. The Body had been brought from the Country & was followed by a Throng of People who made a low doleful noise which tho' intended to mimic Grief most resembled that of a pack of Hounds in full cry. A Bystander who seemed to be a Shopkeeper of the Town told me that the greater part of the Howlers did not even know the name of the Deceased & that ‘the Devil of a wet Eye was there amongst them’. All the lower orders whenever a Funeral passes their Door accompany it for a short distance {MS page 33} & make a Howl — if they did not they think others would not howl when they die & the idea of the horrid Yell that will be made when they are no more sweetens even their Beds of Death. Tho' it was nearly drowned by the Howl yet I heard something like chaunting & was told it proceeded from a woman hired for the purpose who was rehearsing in rhyme the virtues & hospitality of the Deceased.66
I had an introductory Letter to Miss Hutchins67 who is well known by her numerous Discoveries in Natural History, & which I immediately sent by a Messenger to Ballylickey about 3 Miles distant. By the return of the