{Ms 4030 page 43}August 29 To Bantry.
Breakfasted by invitation at Mr Stewart's where we had the best bread I ever saw. A Miss Irwin was there, from Donegal, niece to Dr Irwin of Clones. At 12 we set out by the short road to Bantry, Mr Stewart assuring me that John Kenny160 travelled it lately with his wife in a Cabriole. Others told us it was not very bad, but the
We adventured. Near Neddeen passed the Church on R[ight?] of road surrounded by Elm trees.162 The old site163 is on the opposite side of the River. Here is a fine Vale with rich Orchards & some Seats — two of [them] Mr Orpin's [?&] many [? stone houses etc.]. A mile from the town we quit it [the vale] & turning Southward crossed a bridge & entered the College Estate164 which extends over a great tract of Country here. There are some considerable woods on it well preserved, because they give their tenants {Ms 4030 page 44} a third part Interest in them — & indeed these tenants seem to plant a good deal besides, & have snug habitations. All the under tenants seem well housed also. But the College cut their Woods too often — every 14 years, I hear.
About a mile farther [we] turned off the road on a boggy hill on the right, one or two hundred yards, to see a remarkable Rock that lies on the Surface, about 7 Yards cube, all limestone, whereas this South side of Kenmare is all brown stone without exception & every stone on the North of it Limestone. Upon this Rock grow plants of various kind — Arbutus, Quicken, Holly, Hawthorn, Ivy. What is still more remarkable is that exactly opposite to this rock on the North side of the River there is brown rock.165
Here Mr Stewart who had accompanied us so far took leave & we proceeded by a very good road thro very rough Mountains. At a place called Gheragh Diveen we turned round {Ms 4030 page 45} a most extraordinary ledge of brown stone ending in a fine rounded slope
It now began to rain very hard. William & I went on to look for Shelter which we found under a rock just where the road begins again. Having got there over such difficult rocky ways I was unwilling to turn back, so we proceeded on foot along a new made road, with some very bad sloughs, winding along the side of a high wild Mountain — a pernicious height above an ill cultivated narrow valley on the Right.172 In about two miles walking, sometimes in the clouds & almost in darkness, {Ms 4030 page 48} we overtook our gentlemen, who had stopped to call up men & then proceeded all together to a cabbin about a Mile farther, where we obtained with some fear & caution of the poor inhabitants, some Brandy, very necessary for persons wet & worn. It was now near 6, so the horsemen went on to Bantry, & William remained with me to wait the event of our chaise & pay the labourers of whom we sent 3 or 4 more from hence. None of the Inhabitants could speak English, but one little girl of 10 years, but they were very civil, gave me milk, potatoes & one egg. They had butter, but neither salt nor bread.
At half past 7 the Chaises & men arrived quite safe, but very tired. We refreshed them with Brandy & potatoes & milk, & then set forward for Bantry — 5 Miles we were told of excellent road {Ms 4030 page 49} but 1/2 a Mile off we came to a rapid River, the Comhola, where we crossed a deep & dangerous ford, nearly in the dark. We got safe [across] but the Cabriole had nearly suffered, for the horse being restif fell & the servants (James & Mr Caldwell's man) were obliged to light in the middle of the river.
About nine we reached Bantry, the night growing very bright with Northern lights. Mr Young's173 Inn is an old fabrick, not over good or comfortable, but we were glad to find ourselves there by a good turf fire.