Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
Rev. Daniel A. Beaufort's Tour of Kerry, 1788 (Author: Daniel A. Beaufort)

Entry 12

[August] 24 Ardfert
In our way we resolved to see the Spa105 so went round by the bay which, the tide being full appeared to the best advantage, but very bleak & dreary. At last we arrived at a little walled enclosure

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on the beach in which is a small well just rudely covered over, with sod benches round the wall. The fair dispenser of these Hygeian Waters soon appeared — a little old woman who could not speak a word of English. But she lifted the water in a tin can & poured it in a rinsed glass, much cleaner than at Mallow. The water much as that of Castle Connel106 to the taste, but leaves no Sulphurous tack.

From hence 4 Miles dreary enough to Ardfert, a very small ruinous village. Sacville is 1/2 m from it on a very small {Ms 4030 page 28} eminence — in this flat Country an exceeding pretty one — just built by himself [Dean Graves] but yet bleak. Here we found his Mother, Wife & Sister — Mrs Drought (Graves),107 Master Doyle,108 etc. Breakfasted & then to Church.

The Church109 is small, with a great pew for Lord Glendore,110 a Throne for the Bishop & a few others, added to the South side of the old Cathedral which is a large ruin, very lofty & very antient. The arches [are] chiefly round particularly the West door which is very antient & very curious, of soft red stone well carved, but mostly worn out by the weather. The East window [consists] of 3 long ones 30 feet high. The whole South side overhangs & threatens ruin, & they are now undermining it for graves.

There are here several other old walls, one very antique with round arches & carvings round the windows & heads for a cornice or eve house. No traces of the Round tower left.111 Much fine milkthistle grows here in the Church yard.

{Ms 4030 page 29} After hearing an excellent Sermon from Dean Graves we went to Lord Glendores thro a large Gothick gateway not of a piece with

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the rest of his old fashioned place. The House, built 1722,112 is extremely low, illcontrived & ugly, the furniture mean & the prospect bad. In the Gardens are some shady walks, clipt arcades, weeping willows in abundance — & every thing inspires la melancholie to which the ruin of a large fine Abbey113 contributes its share. Tho none bury here now yet Sculls & bones lie about it. In the grounds, however, are very fine double rows of trees, Beech etc., which finely shelter the ground & make noble shady walks. At Lord Glendore's is a monstrous picture of Macbeth by Fuselli.114

After this we drove to the Strand & so to dinner by 6 o'clock {Ms 4030 page 30} where Richard Graves, F.T.C.D.,115 made another at a handsome entertainment with much good fruit. At ten we left him & got home by eleven to the Inn.