July 17th 1753.
Dublin,Honoured Madam!
I left Dublin on the 19th of June and went by Tallogh a mansion house of the Archbishop of Dublin, repaired by Archbishop Hoadley; and then coming in between the mountains came by Blessington, a village where Lord
Blessington has a seat, and turning to the south I crossed Kings river at Burgage where there is a remarkable old cross about fifteen feet high of one piece of mountain stone; passing by Mr. Leeson's fine new built house and offices I came to the Liffy, which we cross'd over Horspeth Bridge, near which I sat down and dined by the river, and the poor children coming about me, I had the pleasure of feeding them. From this place for about half a mile there are several beautiful falls of the river between the rocks; the banks on each side being high and steep, these falls are called Pooley Pucky: We soon came to the small village and church of Holywood, and passed through the Glyn or narrow vale of Holywood, which is very beautiful having on each side steep hills covered with wood, and is something like the Glyn of the downs near Bray: At the entrance of it I saw they had been working for ore. We came to Donard a poor small town like a village; with a ruinous church: About this place three or four rivlets come out of the mountains and form the river Slaney which runs through the Counties of Carlow and Wexford, and falls into the sea at Wexford; the first I crossed is called the little Slaney, the next is the principal stream near Donoghmore Church: Here Mr. Howard has an estate, he is son of the late Bishop of Elphin, whose patrimony it was: He has a park here and a hunting house. All this country on the Slaney is finely improved and planted in most parts of the way which I went to Baltinglass five miles further, coming into the high Dublin road from Ballymore-Eustace, near two miles from Baltinglass, from which the road all the way is through a wood having Mr. [gap: extent: one word] seat to the right on the river Balinglass is eight computed miles from Ballymore, which is seventeen measured miles from Dublin, eleven Irish measured miles making fourteen
English: But the way I came it must be thirty of our measured miles. Baltinglass is a very pleasant village, tho' call'd a market town, situated in a bottom on the Slaney, and the country round about it is beautifully improved in plantations of Wood: It belongs to Mr. Stratford, who has a small park here on the side of a hill, but lives four miles from this place: He has built houses for weavers, a spinning school and Bleach yard, but it does not take much. There was an Abbey here of St Mary of Baltinglass or de valle Salutis, the Monks were Cistertians, it was founded by Dermot son of Murchard King of Leinster in 1148.On the 20th in the afternoon I went through a very fine country five miles to Castledermot, I observ'd in the way some ruins of a place call'd Grany and was informed that it had been a convent; it was an Augustinian Nunnery founded about 1200 by Gualter de Ridelesford: In Castledermot anciently called Tristledermot is a Priory and Hospital of St John Baptist for cross bearing Friars founded by Walter de Riddlesford, Lord of the place in King John's time. This town had its name from St. Diarmitius who lived here as a Hermit, from whom it was called the desart of Diarmitius. There is a round tower at the Parish church of a larger kind than the common towers of that sort in Ireland. They have a Charter School here for forty boys, founded by the encouragement of the late Lord Kildare. I went on towards Athy and in about a mile came to Kilkea Hill, which appeared as if it had been anciently fortified, and at the foot of it, on a rivlet which falls into the Barrow is a Castle of that name; within a mile of Athy we passed by a remarkable old Rath or fort called Shanrath and arrived at Athy, a small market town well situated on the Barrow, they have a new
market house and it is a Burrough, there is a large stone bridge here over the Barrow. There was a Dominican friary here built in 1257, where several Chapters of the order were held: and on the other side of this bridge was a Priory of St. John for the order of Cross bearers founded in King John's time by Richard de S. Michael Lord of Reban.On the 21st I went four miles to Ballykilcavan the seat of the Welshs where they have pleasant park. I observed in the lime stone of this country some of the petrified coral. I came to Stradbally, a small market town in a well improved Country. Near it is Mr. Cosby's seat with the finest improvements of high hedges, of white thorn, Horn beam &c: I ever saw round the quarters, which are full of Kitchen stuff and excellent fruit trees. Mr. Pigot is building an handsome house in a park near the town, the most beautiful part of this garden is a Terrace, over a river and other walks about it, and another river which falls into it: And between these rivers begins that gravelly bank, covered with green sod, called the Escarp, which I shall have occasion to mention below. This might be made a very beautiful thing, tho' they are carrying part of it away for gravel for the roads, over one of these rivers the County are building a bridge on the Carlow road, which leads to the Charter School: on the other side of the river is a very handsome Charter School for forty or three score boys and girls, and it is large enough to hold an hundred: it was founded chiefly on the bounty and under the direction of Mr. Cosby. Here was a Convent of Minorites founded by Omore, and its thought to be the Convent called Levasia, for it is called Strallbally in Lese, and this County, Kings-County and some other parts were called the County of Lese. I went along a pleasant road through a fine Country, mostly
on the bank of gravel call'd the Escar and in English the ridge, which they say runs almost through the whole country, it is between the two rivlets above mentioned; it is probably that anciently they were larger rivers than at present and that this was the bank between them: After going about three miles I came to Timohoe, where there is a remarkable round tower, with a door to it of Saxon architecture which is singular. We came to Ballyroan a large village on a rivlet, which falls into the Nore, and crossing that river came to Springmount the seat of Mr. Brereton, near the remains of a fine ruined Castle, on the Nore called Killeny.On the 24th I went to Abbeyleix, the seat of Lord Knapton son of Sir Thomas Vesey late Bishop of Ossory,—Here was an Abbey of Cistertians supplied from the Abbey of Baltinglass in 1183, it is said to be founded by Connor O'More, buried there, and in the Street a tomb remains, said to be of O'More in the spot where the Church stood. I went from this place further to Water Castle, Mr. Lyons, a fine spot of ground, well adorned with plantations, through which the river Nore runs, just as the Willey runs through Wilton, and it might be made a fine thing, commanding a view of a very beautiful country all round.
On the 26th I crossed on a bridge at Gortineclea an old Castle, a rivlet called the gulley, which rises towards Burres, in Ossory and falls into the Nore below Water Castle, passing most of the way through a morassy ground: Going to the south of this Morass, I came to Aghaboe, a large village where there are remains of a Monastery, and of a singular tower to a building, probably the Refectory now a Church: The tower is five sides of an octagon, near it is a Mount for defence. This was an Abbey of Dominicans, built by
the Lords of Upper Ossory: It is said to have been first founded by St. Kenny son of Laidee a famous poet, and that he was the first Abbot: He died in 599: 'tis thought the See of Ossory was moved from Saiger now called Seir-Kean to this place about the year 1052 for then a Church was built there, and St. Kenny's tomb placed in it the See was afterwards moved to Kilkenny.On the 27th I went three miles westward to Reshal on the turnpike road to Limerick and fifty miles from Dublin; this is a ruined seat of Lord Montrath's, it was the estate and Mansion house of Costegan the old proprietor, who was proclaimed as a rebel, and his estate granted to Sir Charles Coote, who in 1611 did great services in Ireland and was made Earl of Montrath in 1660—was one of the Lords justices and died in 1661 and was suceeded by his son Charles who in 1696 was also one of the Lords justices: The small old mansion remains, to which Sir Charles made great additions, and the Court and garden are encompassed by walls and defended by Turrets, it is a fine situation, commanding a view of the country to the east and the vale to the west and south west, in which the Nore runs by Borris-in-Ossory. We returned by Castletown, where are remains of an old Castle held by Colonel FitzPatrick for King Charles the First, who forfeited, and going abroad on the restoration had all returned to him; and Richard FitzPatrick of this family was created Baron of Gowran in the County of Kilkenny: His wife was daughter and heir of Sir Jno Robinson of Farmingwood in Northamptonshire, which estate his son now enjoys, as well as a large estate in Ireland. He is a branch of this house the head of which in the time of Henry 8th was made Baron of Upper Ossory. This title somehow or other was not asserted
and lying dormant the present Lord Gowran was created Viscount of Upper Ossory; tho' it is said there is an heir to that title. A mile beyond this place is Mountrath, a small market town, where Lord Montrath has a small house. Both these places are on the high road, one forty eight, the other forty seven from Dublin.On the 29th I went by Gortineclea and going on southward passed by Cuffsborough, Mr. Cuf's, where I observed Trochi and Entrochi in the lime stone which lies loose in the earth all over this country; and at Donoghmore, Mr. Morri's, they have great quarries of this stone, which is a coarse black marble, but not used because the Kilkenny is much better. Going on we saw a small lake to the East called Ardevin and near it Grantsown an old castle which is now inhabited. Coming on a height, I saw to the west a Morass, round which are several places, as near the road Kilbredy a ruined Castle; and near that a fortified Mount, called Motchneloiak (The middle mote) from which Mr. Flood's seat has its name; we then came to a small stream which rises out of the morass: About two miles farther is Donoughmore, where there is a barrack for one troop of horse: going about a quarter of a mile farther we crossed over the river Erkin on a bridge, near it is Coolcany the house of Mr. Baldwin: We had left the road of Rathdowny, a small town on the south side of the Morass, belonging to the heir of Mr. Prior the great patriot of this Kingdom; and going on about two miles came to an old fort called Rath Philip on a height with a burial place near it, 'tho no sign of a church: about a mile farther we came at Whites wall from the Queens County into the County of Kilkenny, and in about two miles to Farta an old monastery, where there is an old round tower, twelve feet in diameter and by measuring
the shadow I found it to be eighty three feet high, but the top point is much decayed and there is crack down the East side of it. There is a church in repair, with some old carved work about it; to the north of it is an old chapel in which there is a tomb of the [gap: extent: one or two words] with an inscription on it, on the tomb is a mezzo relievo of a man in armour with a dog at his feet, a sword in his hand stretched on his thigh, and his hand lying on his other leg; the tomb is adorned with sculpture, near it I saw the top of another tomb, which seemed to be of a woman, with a singular Head dress, rising up on each side as in two horns. This is I suppose the Priory of Kiaran of Augustinian Canons said to be at Fest-re-gerah. I went a furlong farther to Beggars Inn, on the new turnpike road from Dublin to Cashel, five miles from Longford Pass and fifteen from Cashel; near it is a ruin call'd Baun Richen, which they call part of the old monastery, and probably was the farm house belonging to it. The Caley hills extend from Durrow beyond this place to the east of the turnpike road; and from this place is a road to Kilkenny ten miles off, through a Glyn or Vale between the hills, in the middle of which is a little hill, on the top of which there seemed to be a rath or fort: Going on towards Durrow in our return we came in less than a mile to Aglishhaw Castle, where is a rivlet that comes out of the Glyn, and a little farther we had a mile to the west an old Monastery called Agha Macart, and nearer a large fort or Rath. This was a Priory of St Tigernach for Augustinian Canons. In a mile we passed Calahil Castle, a large enclosure with two or three buildings like Chapels. A mile farther we came to Cahil Castle to the west, and a little beyond saw a very pretty seat called Newtown. We then passed a stream,
which rises from a Holy well, a little to the west called Tubberboh; and in about a mile and half, by a pleasant road between the woods of Castle Durrow, we came to Durrow a a small market town, and now a great thoroughfare, the Turnpike road from Dublin to Cashel being carried through it. Lord Ashbrook who till lately had the Title of Castle Durrow has a seat here well situated with a fine Park and Woods.I am &c.
July 3d. 1753. I went from Springmount to Burris-in-Ossory, a village pleasantly situated on the north west side of a chain of beautiful little Hills finely improved which extend to the south west towards the mountains called Devil's Bit, out of which the rivers Suir and Nore rise. This is an estate given by King Charles the First to the favourite Duke of Buckingham and is now the estate of one of his family, of the name also of Villers. There is a good Mansion house on it of the Architecture of those times, which seems to have been built to an old Castle, this place is 53 miles from Dublin. A little beyond it we crossed the Nore, which almost from its rise runs through a morassy ground to Montrath. We passed in sight of Gorvan Castle, on one of those hills to the south, and to the north by Cloncuis Castle, two miles from Borres, it is the estate of Lord Montrath. We came to those hills which divide the Queen's County from the King's County, and in a line from them is the bounds between Queen's County and the County of Tipperary, which is marked by a stone a little beyond the 56th mile stone on the east side of this hill; just at the end of it is a large Castle called Ballaghmore Castle with a wall and ramparts round it. I saw further on to the south as in the Morass a Church with trees planted round it called Monatinchelich. We came to Roscrea 58 miles from Dublin, pleasantly situated
on a rivlet between the little hills, which form a sort of Amphitheater round it, and are bounded by higher hills to the south and north; It is a small town tho' with a little encouragement in the Woollen manufacture it might be greatly improved. At the entrance of the town is the front of a very old church to a modern building, it consists of a door and two flat arches on each side of the Saxon Architecture and a Mezzo relievo probably of St Cronan to whom it is dedicated appears over it much defaced. At a little distance is a Cross in a circle, with the Crucifix on one side and another figure on the other, and adjoining to it a stone carved in several figures and at each end a Mezzo relievo of some saint, they are both of a sandy stone with pebbles in it, in which these hills abound, they are both if I mistake not called the Shrine of St Cronan. To the North west is a round tower fifteen feet diameter with two steps round it at the bottom about fifteen feet from the ground is a window with a regular arch, and as much higher another with a pointed top: it appeared to be only about fifty feet high, but the height was probably seven diameters, which seems to be the proportion they observed, that is 105 feet high, the top of it having probably fallen to decay. On the river at the north west part of the town, are pretty perfect remains of the Convent of Minorites founded by Biliana Widow of Mulroney O'Carroll. There is a barrack here for one company of foot. This estate did belong to the Bishops of Killaloe, who gave it the Crown for the lands of Newcastle in the County of Wicklow and some other lands which the Bishop never got. The Crown granted it to the Earl of Ormond, it was sold by that Duke to Mr. Curtis who sold it to Mr. Daymore. There was a fine old Castle on it, and near it is built a good Mansion house; Some walls appear
about the grove to the north, probably the circuit of that Castle: It is no Corporation, nor is there any justice of peace within some miles of it, as I was informed; and most of the inhabitants are Papists. I returned to Springmount by Aghaboe.I set out from Springmount on the 5th of July and went to Aghaboe from which place I got into the road to Thurles and passed near the Castle of Kilbredy already mentioned, and going towards Donoghmore, came within a quarter of a mile of it, to a ruin call'd Castletown, it is part of a tower, with foundations of walls about it extending a considerable way; and west of it are foundations of another tower; there seems to have been a large village about the Castle which belongs to the Villers, being in the Manor of Buries. I came to Donoghmore pleasantly situated on a height over the rivlet, which runs by Rathdowny, here is a church and a barrack, it is the estate of Lord Gowran; crossing over the rivlet on a heighth, is a Rath call'd Donoghmore or, the great hill which has given name to this place. After travelling about four miles I saw to the North west two beautiful Hills; At the east end of the eastern hill is Ivrin60 where there is a ruined church, and I have been informed that there is a monument there like a cross, to a son of one of the old Lords of Upper Ossory of the Fitzpatrick family; we went across the bog by the pass called Gortahie; x I saw to the right an old Castle call'd if I mistake not Kinslaney x61 About this place came into the County of Tipperary, and to a large old Castle with two round towers at the corners, and large apartments joining, to one now in ruins, the enclosure is about half an acre, it is called Tulleah McJames near which there is such a round tower as is seen often in Ireland near churches, which is singular. I saw a large enclosure two miles to the east called Baunaccarah,
passed through a Village call'd Ballyerle, where I observed there was a large school at the chapel or Masshouse, where they are taught Latin: Within two miles of Thurles I came to Rahelty Castle, a good building rounded off at the Angles, an excellent regular arch at the entrance; the rooms on each floor about twenty by thirty, there is a very extensive view from the top of it, of the mountains to the west called Devil's Bit, out of which the Suir and Nore rise very near to each other; hills to the south of them called Kilnemanogh, the Galty Mountains on the borders of the County of Tipperary, Limerick, and Cork, Knockmandown towards Lismore, the mountains of the County of Waterford and to the south east Sleannemane, which is seen plainly from the Key of Waterford and stretches its foot near to Carrick and Clonmel and then to the East the hills on which Killenaule stands which running to the north east are joined by Cullyhill which extends to Durrow. I arrived at Thurles situated on the river Suir, twelve long miles from Roscrea, seven from Cashel and fifteen from Kilkenny. There is a bridge here over the river, the first being at Loughmore three miles higher. This river abounds in Pike, Eeles and large Trouts. The town consists of one short street, with a market town in the middle, at the end of it is the old Castle, now the seat of Mr. Mathews in which he has built a handsome modern house, in the garden is a Mount with a winding ascent, which probably was an old Danish fort. On the East side of this river is the church which is built to the tower of an old church, the east part of this church being an Arch under the tower; to the east of that is a chapel in which there is a monument of the Archers of Archers Court near, who had contentions with the Lords of Thurles. The head dress of the woman is like that at
Farta already described, but not so much pointed at each corner. On the same side are the remains of a convent, a tower and some part of the Cross Isle to the north; it was founded by the Butlers for the order of St. Mary of Mount Carmel. There is a large popish chapel built chiefly by Mr. Mathews according to an inscription set in a wall near it. They have some tradition I believe without foundation, that this Castle did belong to the Knights Templars: There are two barracks here for three troops of horse—On the 8th of July I left Thurles, came in about nine miles to Burres en Leough, probably Burres on the Lough, being an Island on the bog, which might anciently be a Lough. Here Mr. Mathews has a seat; this is called the bog of Monela, which extends northward near to Roscrea. These Islands consist of a lime stone gravel and large pebbles of lime stone; five miles from Thurles we came to Longford Pass, where there was a barrack6263 for half a company of foot, which is now in ruins, not having been used for near twenty years. Three miles from Thurles, the road to Cashel leaves the road to Thurles, pointing almost directly south. A little beyond Longford Pass, the road goes to the East to Kilkenny, and I turned northward in the road to Durrow, having the hills to the East, which extend along the west side of the river Nore. There is a hill to the west side of these, on the side of which there is a house called Ballyspellan; a quarter of a mile above it is a mineral water which runs through a black slate, which is Medicinal, and its said there is a composition of sulphur in it; it is esteemed good for all kinds of scrophulous disorders. I came down from this place to Farta already mentioned and continuing two miles along the road to
Durrow, I went out of it to the west about half a mile to the monastery of Agha Macarth mentioned before, in which there is nothing remarkable, but a gate at the entrance with a true arch of good workmanship, and there are stone sockets for the gate to turn on. This place is on the rivlet called the Goula, which runs near Farta, and a little below this joins the river which runs from Rathdowney; I crossed the river about 2 miles above it and came to Grantstown Castle which is oval. Passing by Aghagouran a ruined church, I came to a little Mount, which is called the Leap, and so returned by Gorthniclea to Springmount.On the 13th of July I left Springmount, stop'd at Stradbally and came to the Barrow at Riverstown, where one Mr. Brown has has a pleasant seat. This a beautiful place, and mostly resembles old Windsor; the ferry is crossed in a very bad boat, and I was obliged to swim one of my horses.
I came to Kildare on the 14th; I passed over the Curragh and came to Newbridge; here I saw part of the Head and horns of an Elk, dug out of a neighbouring bog, where they have also found several bones of this animal, and have been informed that they seldom find a skeleton together, but the bones dispersed, probably not only by the current of the water, but where they are found on a descent by the moving of the earth. I stop'd at Furnace and arrived at Dublin in the evening.
I am &c.
Honoured Madam,
On Monday the 6th of August 1753 I left Dublin to go to Ardbracan which is two miles beyond Navan, in the county of East Meath. I went through the Phoenix Park, and had on the right the rivlet which rises above Dunboyn and falls into the sea by Ballybaw Bridge, near
Dublin, having passed by Finglass and Glasnevin some parts of it which are planted and are very beautiful. On the top of the hill to the right, is the old ruined church of Malahilhart, to which the people resort much out of devotion especially on the Patron day. We crossed the river about a mile from Dunboyn, and came from the County of Dublin into the County of East Meath. Near Kileen Castle I saw Dunsany, where Lord Dunsany lives, a Roman Catholick Lord of about £200 a year. We came up to Tara at the top of the hill of that name, where the Kings of Meath, one of the five divisions of Ireland, are said to have resided; and they have a tradition, that in a field to the west of the church, the five Kings of the five provinces of Ireland used to meet. I saw five barrows in this situation on which it is possible the five kings Omorth sat with their people round them,64
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I conjectured also that they might bear some relation to their respective situations on the southern one is a stone or pillar set up which might belong to the Emperor or head of them the King of Munster. In the churchyard also there is an ancient stone set up, on which there is an unshapen short figure, something like Pusterus the German Deity.65 About a small mile to the south, I had seen the remains of a large Rath, called Errameath, probably the place of residence of the Kings of Meath. Close to Tara is Brabazon Lodge the seat of Mr. Brabazon, brother and heir to the Earl of Meath; it is a large house, and its said to have been a much greater building, probably round a Court. They say it was built by Stopford Secretary to Oliver Cromwell, from whom I am informed the Stopfords of this County are descended. I went a mile across this demesne to the north to Skreens: on another summit of the hill; here is
a good old church with a high tower; the east end of the church is in repair. Over the south door is a Mezzo relievo of St. Columb, to whom the church is dedicated, it is very well executed, in the left hand is a book, in the right, a staff. A little below the church are the remains of the friery of Augustinian Hermits, to which I was informed 40 acres of land did belong. Descending from Skreens, I observed a point of land which has been fortified and beyond it on the west side of the vale is a large Rath, near this is >Lismullen, an estate of the Dillons: From this vale a river runs down to the high road and meets another, which passes through the vale to the east of Bellenter and both of them fall into the Boyne opposite to Ardsallah. I arrived at Ardbracan the Bishop of Meath's, two miles beyond Navan, from which place I made several excursions, in which and at other times, I made such observations on the Country about the Boyne, as I shall send you the first opportunity.I am &c:
Honoured Madam,
The Boyne is said to rise out of a Spring at Castle Carbery in the County of Kildare called the Mother Spring of the Boyne; but I observed that the larger stream rises out of a Bog, near the Charter School, and that this small stream falls into it. Castle Carbery is an estate belonging to the two Coheiresses Miss Cooleings, and is finely situated on a height improved with plantations which is seen at a great distance. I went farther down the Boyne I see Ballybogan in the County of Meath, a place on the Boyne; which I take to be a Priory dedicated to the Holy Trinity; it was called also Laude Dei and belonged to Canons Regular of St Austin. And I once saw some large ruins this way, which are I suppose the remains of that Monastery: Lower is Clonard the See of
an ancient Bishoprick, where I saw some ruins and there was here a Convent of Canonesses, a Priory of St Peter of Canons Regular of St Austin, and another Convent of some Order, founded by St Firmian. About two miles above Trim the river of Trimleston falls into the Blackwater; on this river is Trimleston, the seat of Lord Trimleston built to an ancient Castle, that was mostly destroyed in Oliver's time. The present Lord married young and retired to Paris, where his genius leading him to Botany, he studied Physick, and often gave his advice to the Princes of the Blood and other Nobility: about six years ago he returned on the death of his Father and brought a great collection of Exotic plants, among 'em the Cinamon-tree and the Hermaphrodite, the latter has on it the leaves of Orange, Lemon Citron and Cedra, and each fruit contains in it, the fruit of these four kinds, which caused great speculation at Paris, but it was determined it could not be done by any inoculation or Art, but that it was a tree of this kind. As his Lordship's skill in Physick soon became known, people of all conditions resorted to him, and now he allots fridays to hear them all, and he not only hears the poor but gives them drugs, the rich who come to consult, putting into a Box for that purpose; he is a Nobleman of excellent sense and of great politeness and address; he has found out near his house thirty six uncommon plants, most of which he has brought into his garden. The River of Trimleston has a large black Trout, exceeding that of the Boyne, and also very good Eeles; I found in it several small shell fish of different kinds, and among them I found one about as big as a silver threepence, a most complete Ammon's horn and alive. They have very good quarries here of Lime Stone, some of which rises as flags or broad
stones. And Mr. Barnewall My Lord's eldest son has sent me petrifications of small Nautilus's found in the quarries. Lord Trimleston has a dark avenue to his house, near an English mile long. Three miles beyond it is Athboy, where was a Convent of Carmelites, and in a chapel of the church I saw an ancient Monument: near it is the hill of Ward, from which there is a fine prospect of Skeles, Ardbraccan, Trim and a great tract of country. Athboy stands on the river Trimleston, and almost all the way to the west of it, is a bog, the further side of which is the bounds between the County of East Meath and West Meath. To the north of the Hill of Ward is rathmore the ruined seat of Lord Darnley,—where there is a large wood. We now come to Trim on the Boyne, a small town situated on both sides of the river; it has anciently been walled, and there are remains of the walls and gates, one to the west of the Street from Dangan, another still in repair called Athboy gate: A high tower remains in part of the Dominican Convent, but one side of it was blown up by Oliver's army. There was a Convent of Black Friars and Grey Friars one where the barrack is, and the other to the north of the town: But the greatest piece of Antiquity is a very large Castle, called King John's Castle, which is a building of great strength, the enclosure extending to the river. About half a mile from Trim on the Boyne, is the Priory of St Peter and St Paul of Newtown near Trim, which was also an ancient Bishop's See, of which there were several in the Diocese of Meath, many of them consisting of some one of the present twelve Deaneries of the Diocese. They were here Canons of St Victor, and I was informed that a daughter of King John lies buried here of the name of and that they show a stone, said to be over her tomb. Near Trim the Earl of Roscommon
had an estate, who was succeeded by his Brother, that Earl's widow who had the estate at her disposal, was afterwards married to the Father of Mr. Carter Master of the Rolls, who now enjoys it. At Ardcreagh in the way to Navan was an old Castle called Ardcreagh, to which the Duchess of Tyrconnel, sister to the Duchess of Marlborough, retired for three or years after the battle of Aughrim, and then went to London and Paris. Going from Trim towards Dublin on the road is the Charter School for 20 Boys and 20 Girls. About a mile farther is the church of Laracor which belonged to Dean Swift, and he lived a month or two in the summer in a little house near it. We soon after came to Dangan the seat of Lord Mornington situated on a most beautiful flat, with an Amphitheater of hills rising round it, one over another, in a most beautiful manner; at the lower end is a very large piece of water, at one corner of which is an Island, it is a regular fortification, there is a ship a sloop and boats on the water, and a yard for building; the hill beyond it, is improved into a beautiful wilderness: on a round hill near the house is a Temple, and the hills round are adorned with obelisks: Pillars and some buildings, altogether the most beautiful thing I ever saw.66 A mile beyond it is Summerhill, Mr. Bowley's, a commanding Eminence, the house is like a Grand Palace, but in the Vanbrugh Style; the prospect from it is very fine and there are great plantations about it; the country behind it does not answer to the other parts in beauty, for it presents to your view a very disagreable Bog. Not far from this is another fine place belonging to Lord Bawdon's
brother, call'd Bramhall. Returning to the Boyne the next place is the [gap: extent: one word] Corn Mills belonging to Mr. Carter, and below it is [gap: extent: one word] a pleasant seat of Mr. Worthington's. Near this on the Boyne, are large ruins of the Bernardine Abbey of Bectiffe or de Beatitudine founded by Merchand O'Melaghlin Prince of Meath about the year 1150. The cloister is almost entire with a tower. At this place there is a bridge over the Boyne, which is the shortest road from Athboy to Dublin: Below this near the road from Dublin to Navan is Belenter, Mr. Preston's a very handsome new built house of six rooms a floor, with convenient offices, joined by a Corridore, and a Court of offices on each side; there is a fine view of the Boyne from it, which is at the distance of a furlong from the house. After the Boyne has run to the east all the way from its rise it here takes a turn a little to the north, and at the angle is Ardsallagh Mr. Ludlow's seat, lately married to the present Earl of Scarborough's sister, the house is just over the Boyne, the garden laid out in the old way, has the Boyne on two sides, and there is a shady walk near the river, having the rock on the other side, which appears in several strata, and is a most singular and beautiful thing; at the mill beyond it there is a rough ford across the river. Below this is a Bridge over the Boyne and a little beyond it Athumley lately the seat of Mr. Coddington, from which there is a beautiful hanging ground over the river, partly planted with wood, it extends much in the same manner all the way to the mouth of the river on both sides; and half a mile further is the old house of Athlumley, very large, and they say never finished; it is the estate of Sr Quaile Sommerville: This house was built by Sr Luke Dowdle one of the principal fomenters of the Massacre in 1641. The river
then runs to Navan and very near it turns to the East. Navan is well situated on an eminence, at the confluence of the Blackwater and the Boyne, and there is a beautiful hanging ground from the town covered with trees. Passing over the Blackwater, I rode on the north side of the Boyne and in a mile came to the church of Donoghmore, over which is an ancient round tower fifteen feet in diameter, the three lower tiers of stone set out about half a foot and make three steps round it, the door is about fifteen feet from the ground, there are three members round it, which is not common, and a head on each side of the spring of the arch, and what is singular a Crucifix over the arch, cut in a barbarous manner, as they are usually cut on old crosses. A little below this is the Castle of Dunmow. In two miles we came to Stackallen, first passing by the road which leads to a bridge over the Boyne. Stackallen is the seat of the late Lord Boyne and now of Mr. Hamilton brother to the present Lord, near opposite to this, on the other side are the seats of Mr. Meredith and Mr. Lambert, the former has a large new built house; Mr. Lambert is building a very good house on an eminence over the Boyne where it makes a short turn, so that this situation commands a fine view of the river, near it are some Copper Mines: Going further on the north side of the river I came to Barstown Cross, on which there is an inscription, and down to the Castle of Slane a large house of Mr. Cunningham's, since who I saw this place has been created Lord Mount Charles, it is very finely situated on the river: A little above it on the other side is a small rocky hill, from which a perpendicular rock extends down the river for a quarter of a mile, appearing like a wall with trees and shrubs growing out of it, and has a most beautiful effect. Above this about a
furlong from the river is the poor town of Slane. They were in search of coal about a mile from this town, and it is said there is certainly coal there, of the kind of Kilkenny coal, but that they cannot get it worked by the obstinacy of the Proprietors. From this place to the mouth of the Boyne, I gave you an Account in a letter I wrote last May of a tour I made into that Country.I am &c:
Honoured Madam,
I mentioned in my last that the Blackwater falls into the Boyne at Navan. This river rises out of the Lough Ramor in the County of Cavan and passes by Kells a small market town situated on an eminence; about three miles below Kells, the river Monalty falls into it, which rises likewise in the County of Cavan near Ballyborow; on it about six miles from its source is Monalty a poor village finely situated, there are remains of the enclosure of a Castle, which belongs to the Betas the old proprietors; and there is an old Mount in Mr. Maxwell's garden to whom the place belongs. The river then runs near Ardbraccan and by Liscartan, the family estate of Lord Cadogan, which is set in lives for ever at £200 a year; his ancestor was a Colonel in Oliver's Army and governor of Trim, had great estates and considerable influence in this Country.
I made an excursion northward from Ardbraccan, and cross'd the river a mile above Lord Cadogan's at Dunogh Patrick Bridge: We had a flat morassy country to the west, all the rest hilly rising to the east towards Navan and Slanes the Castle of which we saw, and in about three miles came to the high road from Navan to Nobber to Coote Hill and to the middle parts of the Kingdom:
Here is a large Rath commanding an extensive view of a very fine Country. I went northward a mile and a half in the road to Atherdee and within a mile of Suddan near the borders of the County of Louth in order to observe the course of the rivers and the Geography of this Country, in which I found the Maps very far from being correct. I turned along a rivlet, which falls into the river call'd Owen More (the great river) a little below Nobber, which is a very poor town, pleasantly situated on that river. The family of the Balfs were formerly in some condition here, and they show their ancient monuments. A mile above Nobber on the river is Brittes the seat of General Blithe brother of Lord Darnley, a neat box and fine plantation, with some ornamental buildings: A little above it the river forms a Lough called Kilmainham about a mile in circumference; here I suppose was the Preceptory of the Knights of Jerusalem, said to be at Kilmainham near the Nobber. The country about Nobber and for three miles beyond it is covered with loose free stone of a reddish and yellow colour; they told me that Carrickeleg at about that distance is a rock of free stone, so that these stones have probably rolled down from this rock. It is on the eminence which must command a view of that valley, in which the river Lagan runs and falls into the sea at Garlandstown between Dunleer and Dundalk, and in some parts the County of Monaghan from the Counties of Cavan and Louth. In sinking a well at Nobber near forty feet they found it a gravel mostly consisting of the free Stone and with it large pebbles of Limestone. I went two miles in the high road and turn'd out of it a quarter of a mile to White Wood Lord Gormanstown's: This is a fine eminence over the vale between Kilmainham Lough and Lough Carr about half a mile above it made by the same
river and it commands a view of both. The house is new built of the free Stone found over the fields. I returned to the road and soon left it, going down near Lough Carr to the river above it, and came to a very beautiful narrow vale, in which the river runs between two hanging rocky grounds covered with trees. We went through this for half a mile and came to a hilly country and in about half a mile to Everch Lough, out of which they say the river Owenmore rises, but a river falls into it from Lough Muff about a mile higher, which must be the rise of the Owenmore. On the south side of the Lough there is a Meeting-house. We then passed a skirt of the County of Cavan, and came again into the County of Meath, and had to the right a ruin'd Castle called Faun Breehen and to the left the river Carig which falls into Monalty river. There is marle along this Valley with shells in it, and so it is in most parts of the Country I passed through; in the bottoms it is mostly in patches in different parts. I saw here a long hill called Shribogh, on which I observed several little barrows, as if there had been niches sunk in it, but I could not be informed of any such thing. We had travelled along the foot of the hills which are the bounds between this county and that of Cavan, but towards Monalty we came into a fine well improved hilly Country. I came to Monalty and returned to Ardbraccan and to Dublin.I am &c:
Honoured Madam,
On Monday the 27th of August 1753 I went by Cromlin into the road to Naas, turned out of it in about six miles from Dublin up to Sagart on the foot of the mountain and in a mile came to Coolmine Castle, on the side of the mountain, and a little farther at Newtown, saw three
stones set up on end in a field, they are about five or six feet high, and seem to be part of some piece of Antiquity: in all the streams about these hills are fine stones, which are a Composition of pebbles and would polish. We had a fine view of the Country to the west on each side of the Liny, and came to Rathmore, a very large Rath or fortress, said to have been the place of Residence of the Kings of Leinster, it is about twelve miles from Dublin. After travelling about three miles farther we came into a beautiful plain country extending to the Liny, in which there are some good houses of Gentlemen Farmers, which have a fine effect in the prospect, and came to Loughlantown an old Castle belonging to the late Mr. Calvin who owned the estate we pass'd through. Half a mile brought us to Hamitown the estate of Mr. Eustace, situated on a rising ground and commanding an extensive view every way, particularly of the course of the Liffy. The park is a remarkable fine spot well planted, and below it a command of water, which might be improved into a beautiful serpentine river. I went two miles further to Kilcullen Bridge; over the Liffy a quarter of a mile below it, is Castle Martyn, a pleasant seat of Mr. Carter Master of the Rolls, especially the meadows of the river afford most delightful walks; on the opposite Northern side there are high cliffs over the Liffy. Half a mile above the bridge is the new Abbey, of which the Church remains, and there is a fine old monument in it of Rowland Eustace and his wife, who are represented in in Mezzo relievo, the former in armour and the woman with a very 67