Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition
Pococke's Tour in Ireland in 1752 (Author: Richard Pococke)

entry 8

On the 30th I set out northward and ascending the hill, saw a beautiful country between the low hills to the sea, and the mountains to the west, it is almost all covered with oats, with houses very thick all over it, and little plantations about them in their gardens, so that they appear like little groves or clumps of trees all over the country, which strikes the more, as there is not any other tree to be seen in the country: it is entirely an open country like common fields. From this ground I saw the rocks called by the sailors the maidens, and by the country people the Whilkins. I turn'd out of the way to go to the sea cliffs, which are of the black stone, in order to see what they call the black cave, but found it to be nothing but a passage worn through the rock; beyond this is a fine head called Baleygelly the seat of Mr.[gap: extent: one word]. I travelled through this fine country, which makes up the great Living of Larne Castle: They are notwithstanding very indifferent husbandmen, their common method being to plough one year and lay down one year, nor have they the method I saw in the County of Down of making folds with green sod, to fold their sheep in order to manure the land.


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I ascended a high hill which is the point that makes the Bay of Glenarme, and struck out of the road to the east, to go through Lord Antrim's little park, which is the most beautiful and romantick ground I ever beheld; it is the very point which makes the bay to the north, and is a hanging ground over the sea, from which there is a steep ascent, it may be of fifty yards, on which there is a wood, then there is an uneven lawn with some wood in several parts and rocks rising up so as that at a distance, some of them appear like ruins of Castles, then there is a very steep ascent, not less than 80 or 90 yards high cover'd with wood, this leads to a lawn, and going on towards the north the point of ground rises higher and terminates in a beautiful mount which commands a fine prospect, where My Lord often dines: further to the north is another height, all the hanging ground from them beautifully cover'd with wood: above this lawn which is within these heights is the perpendicular rock, at least an hundred yards in height, out of which shrubs and trees grow in a most beautiful manner; the ascent up to the door of the park at a lower part of the hill is difficult; above this height is the road from Larne to Glenarme and they tell many extraordinary stories of men and cattle that have fall'n down these precipices and have not been much hurt. I descended a long hill to Glenarme, a village situated on each side of a river in a narrow vale, between the hills on the Bay of Glenarme, where Lord Antrim has resided in an ordinary house, since his habitation at Ballimagarry near Dunluce was burnt; but there is an old house with good room in it, without a roof which he is about to repair. There are some remains of an old Abbey on the bay, and a sort of rampart on the north of it, as for a place of defence to retire to in a time of danger. Over the town to


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the north is a hill with an easy ascent, on which there is a horse course, which commands a fine view, especially of the great park, and here My Lord has a stable for his race horses; this nobleman's chief amusement being the fine horses which he breeds every year. Mr. Broome a relation to the late Bishop of Down Dr. Rider, now Archbishop of Tuam, is minister of this parish; he paid me a visit, and carried me to see Lady Antrim's grotto, in which there are a great number of fine and curious shells, and many of the pinna, which are found off the north east point of Ireland. He brought me compliments from my Lord Antrim that he would be glad to see me. Mr. Broome rode with me to the great park, which is as curious and beautiful as the other, but in a different way: two rivers rise in the hills meet below and make the river of Glenarme, which flows in the narrow valley; the park wall runs along the top of the hills and almost encloses these three rivers, being about nine miles in circumference: the entrance to the park is about half a mile to the west of Glenarme, and on both sides of the river both below and on sides of the hills, is an agreeable variety of Lawn and wood for a mile; further on it is all wood and on both sides, and just at the entrance of this wood on an eminence, is a banqueting house in a very romantick situation: when one has enter'd the wood, the bed of the river is deeper, having perpendicular rocks on each side from twenty to forty feet high and trees grow out of them, and one sees between them many beautiful cascades, particularly one near 30 feet high; about ten feet below the top is a shelf, and at top the rock overhangs so, as no salmon can get up but they frequently leap and fall on that shelf, and often bruise themselves so that they die. Above is another very beautiful cascade in two or three falls in the breadth of

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the river, but the finest in is the middle: I went up the eastern river to see the most beautiful of all; which tumbles down is a sheet near 30 feet; from this we ascended up the hill to the east through the wood and came to a lawn, and had a view to the west of the round high top of the [...] sleamish (I am the hill) by way of eminence, near which St. Patrick when he first came from Scotland fed hogs, and on the hill Skerries not far from it, are remains of a church, which is said to be the first in Ireland. We returned home by the hill to the gate of the park we came in at. I waited on Lord and Lady Antrim, and lay at my Lds. house.