Monday
We designed for Ardmagh, and went 16 mile towards it, mostly on the very wild mountains, The Fews. These Mountains are of a Boggy, heathy Soile, the Road thro' them of a Rocky Gravel; in all this way meet but one house, and nothing like Corn, Meddow, or Enclosures. We baited on them at the Second House, which is called black Ditch, where is also a small foot Barrack, but without any Soldiers. Here was miserable Entertainment, not so much as tolerable Grass within two mile of 'em. From hence two or three miles brings you to the End of the Mountains, and then you enter into a pleasant Enclosed Corn Countrey, which in 5 or 6 miles brings you thro' very new made Roads to Ardmagh.
Ardmagh is a very pretty Town and Burrough situated on a Hill. The Cathedral, which is yet in the same place where St. Patrick first fixed his See, stands at the highest part of the Town, and from whence you have all round you a very beautifull prospect of as well an Improved and enclosed Countrey as can be. The choir of this Cathedral has been Lately rebuilt and much adorned by the Dean Drelincourt, who has wainscotted and painted it all at his own cost, so that it is now, I think, handsomer than any in Dublin. Here is also a very handsome free School now building, and good Barracks. Cousin Dopping was this Evening Sworn a Burgess of ye Town, and I was complimented with my freedome.